The 7 mops for laminate floors we tested

Important features to consider

Laminate floors require a different cleaning process than hardwood, vinyl, or tile floors. Laminate flooring is made of wood composite layered with an image of a variety of wood grains and a transparent protective layer. Although laminate is water-resistant, most often it’s not waterproof, meaning that water can seep through and cause the laminate to buckle. The protective layer is very durable and is designed to be easily cleaned without floor cleaners or detergents.

Not all the mops we tested on hardwood floors are suitable for laminate. Laminate floors should only be cleaned with a microfiber mop head and a few spritzes of water. Microfiber absorbs dirt and dust and leaves floors virtually germ-free. There are many mops for laminate floors available, but when buying one, consider the following features.

Mop head size

You’ll want a mop head to be large enough to clean a laminate floor with just a few strokes. But the mop head shouldn’t be too large because it will hinder you in cleaning tight corners, right angles, and along baseboards. Several brands call their product “professional” because the mop head measures 18″ in length, which we found to be too long. Our top pick, O-Cedar ProMist MAX, is 15″ long, and was ideal for maneuverability.

Pole length

The length of the mop’s pole is dependent on your height. To reduce strain on your back from bending over as you mop, it’s recommended that the pole reaches just beneath your chin. Many mops we tested had poles that were 43″ (3’5″) long, which for our tester was too short and resulted in back and shoulder stress. Another top pick, Turbo Mop, has a pole that can be adjusted from 35″ to 60″ and can be used by most people of any height. Microfiber Wholesale is another mop with a pole that can be adjusted 45″ to 70″, the longest of the mops we tested.

Spray angle

Some mops for laminate floors have a built-in spray, water or cleaning solution cannister, and trigger mechanism in the mop’s handle. During testing we found a wide variance in the angle of the sprays. Often, the spray was angled too high so bottoms of kitchen cabinets got soaked. Swiffer mops are well-known, and the Swiffer WetJet we tested had a perfectly angled spray that hit only the floor.

Maneuverability

Since you want mopping to be a less-burdensome chore, choose a mop with a rotating and/or tilting head, which enables you to mop along baseboards at different angles without lifting and turning the mop. Both of our top choices were the easiest to maneuver, with the O-Cedar taking the lead with its mop head that can completely flip over with a flick of the wrist.

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The 9 mops for hardwood floors we tested

Important features to consider

Hardwood floors require frequent maintenance to keep them beautiful. Sweeping and vacuuming help prevent buildup of dirt and grime, but you’ll also need to occasionally clean the floors with a mop. A string mop and a bucket of water is definitely not the way to clean a hardwood floor, since a string mop holds too much water, even when wrung, which can damage the wood and cause it to pucker. Mostly, hardwood floors should be regularly cleaned by just using a damp mop with water and a little bit of cleaning solution.

Hardwood floors are a little more forgiving than laminate floors. This means all the mops we tested on laminate floors will work here, but not the other way around. According to Architectural Digest, floor-cleaning experts agree that the best mop for a hardwood floor is a microfiber mop, which uses a fraction of the liquid than a string mop. As we tested nine mops — almost all microfiber — we determined several features that you should consider when purchasing a mop for hardwood floors.

Mop head size

Unless you’re a clean freak, you might not enjoy mopping floors, so it makes sense to get it done efficiently and quickly. The mop head should be wide enough to allow for cleaning a floor in a few strokes, but on the other hand, it shouldn’t be so wide that you can’t get into corners. Our top picks, the Rubbermaid – Reveal Spray Floor Mop and the O-Cedar – ProMist Max, each measure 15″ wide and allowed for maneuverability along baseboards and right angles.

Maneuverability

To make mopping less of a chore, select a mop that has a swivel or rotating head. Most of the mops we tested had this feature, but depending on the design or the mop’s weight, a few required more strength to push around the floor, like the Bona – Hard Surface Mop. The best maneuverability was with the non-spray mops, like the Turbo Mop. The one drawback to this type of mop, however, is you’ll have to use a spray bottle to dampen the floor as you mop.

Pole length

The length of the mop’s pole proved to be as equally important as the mop-head size. To reduce strain on your arms, shoulders, and back, the mop’s pole should be as high as your chin. The mops we tested ranged from 43″ to 55″ with 50″ being the most comfortable for our tester. Two of the mops we tested — Turbo Mop and Microfiber Wholesale — had retractable poles that could extend to 60″ and 70″, respectively.

Spray angle

For the mops that have a built-in trigger spray, there was a noticeable variance in the spray angle. Several mops we tested had a spray angled too high so furniture got wet. Our top picks and the Swiffer WetJet had spray angles aimed directly onto the floor, which is where you want your cleaning solution to be.

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The 9 kitchen towels we tested

Important features to consider

Kitchen towels may be the most underappreciated workhorse in your kitchen. We all take them for granted, but we always grab one when a saucepan handle gets too hot, or for mopping up the red wine you’ve somehow spilled onto the countertop, or protecting your rising pizza dough from drafts, or wiping smudges and dust off your best crystal. But not all kitchen towels are the same, and they often fail to do the primary reason you have them — drying dishes, glasses, and cookware — which is why they end up in the bottom of a drawer or are relegated to the rag bin.

Our testing team included a professional chef with decades of experience. He estimates that he’s gone through hundreds of kitchen towels over the years he’s been in business and advised us as to what makes a great kitchen towel. Kitchen towels can be bought everywhere, and the nine towels we tested reveal several factors you should consider when purchasing them.

Sometimes we have messes that we don’t want sitting around in the hamper, or whatever you’re cleaning up you simply don’t want to put in your washing machine, it calls for a disposable solution like paper towels. But for majority of kitchen work, read on to learn about how we selected the best kitchen towels.

Absorbency

The number one consideration is how absorbent the kitchen towel is. Except for the KitchenAid Albany towel, all the towels we tested were 100% cotton. (The Albany towel was a cotton-polyester blend.) Kitchen towels always need to be washed before their first use, because washing opens up the cotton fibers and makes them absorbent. The towels we tested were absorbent to a degree, but the thickness and weave of the Fecido and Williams-Sonoma – Striped towels made their absorbency superior to the others.

Size

All cotton towels will shrink when machine washed and dried. We measured all the towels before the first wash and then again after the second wash, and shrinkage was between 1 inch and 4 inches. The KitchenAid – Albany didn’t shrink at all because of its 6% polyester composition. Since you’ll want a kitchen towel to dry many items at one time, it’s best to start out with a larger towel to counteract the inevitable shrinkage. Pre-wash, the Fecido towel and the Williams-Sonoma Striped towel were 20″ x 28″ and 20″ x 30″, respectively, and had minimal shrinkage post-wash, which left us with generously sized towels.

Securely stiched hems

We don’t think you should spend a fortune on kitchen towels, but the less-expensive towels were cheaply made and frayed after washing. The most noticeable threads were at the corner hems where the stitching was becoming loose. Towels that had double-thick hems with strong stitching survived machine washing. Although the Bumble towels were not our favorite, they had the widest and thickest hems and did not fray. The Urban Villa towels also had wide hems with mitered corners, sewn together at 45-degree angles, which proved to be the sturdiest.

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Important features to consider

It’s important to note that litter tracking (scattering throughout the house) is natural and completely dependent on each cat’s behavior. That also means there is no single one-size-fits-all litter mat to help remove litter tracking that applies to all cats. However, we’ve come up with some essential features to consider before purchasing your litter mat.

Texture / quality

Texture matters to cats (like in cat toys or litter mats), and you may need to change out mats depending on what your cat prefers. Some cats prefer softer fabrics over rubbery textures, while others want the opposite. The more your cat likes the material of the mat, the more likely it will use it to scratch off the excess litter on its paws. Textures we’ve tested are rubber coils, double-layer honeycomb trap mats, microfiber fabric mats, and silicone mats.

Washability

Litter mats constantly get litter thrown and scraped onto them, so it’s important to be able to easily clean and sanitize them. Some litter mats are made of rubber, foam, or silicone so that they can be hosed down outside or in the bathtub. In comparison, other varieties are made of fabric and can be cleaned in the washing machine. If you typically use a vacuum to remove excess litter, you may want a litter mat that you can vacuum easily without the mat moving around too much.

Size

Before buying any litter mat, measure your allocated space to know what fits. We recommend purchasing a size slightly wider than your litter box so it catches any litter your cat kicks–at least one foot wider. The size and texture depend on your cat’s behavior and how much space you want to allocate for the mat in your home. The bigger mats take up space in your house but may prevent more scatter because cats have more room to dislodge excess litter on their paws.

Budget

Mats come in all different sizes and variations, and they also vary in price. We’ve tested litter mats that range from as low as $15 to as high as $50. The larger mats are typically more expensive than smaller-sized mats, so keep this in mind.

How we selected & tested

We tested seven different litter mats for several weeks with our resident cats. The litter mats range in size from small to large, are made of various materials, are designed differently, and are all priced under $50. We reviewed each litter mat on its quality, durability, usefulness in reducing litter tracking, and washability.

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The nine pet hair removers we tested

Important features to consider

During our testing we discovered that even our top picks don’t remove all pet hair, but they do come close. Some performed better than others, but to finish the job, it’s best to use a pet hair vacuum. Many pets shed hair everyday, and vacuuming can be a chore on a daily basis, so the pet hair removers we tested are great for quick picker-uppers. Based on our tests, we recommend considering the following features before purchasing a pet hair remover.

Compartment to capture hair

Most pet hair removers are scrapers, meaning you scrape the hair into a ball and then pick it up manually for disposal. Inevitably, some stray hairs and lint remain behind, so you need to re-scrape the surface to gather up those small hairs. (Or, of course, you could vacuum them up.) Our top pick, the DELOMO roller, picks up pet hair and deposits it into an internal compartment that can be emptied into the trash.

Ergonomic design

Since pet hair removers by nature are manual, look for one that has been designed to fit comfortably in your hand. The Lilly Brush Pro Detailer has a wide silicone blade that’s curved to fit in your palm, and it also has a strap for inserting fingers as you’re scraping up hair.

Wide blade

Since you’ll want to pick up as much hair as you can without re-doing it several times, look for a remover that has a wide flexible blade — usually made of silicone or rubber. A wider blade lets you cover a wider area, which means you’ll get the job done faster. We also found a wider blade was more efficient in scraping up hair from carpets and area rugs.

Sticky roller or not?

Sticky rollers do a great job of collecting surface hair, but they’re bad at picking up embedded hair. Also, you’ll go through the sticky sheets fast, so they’re not cost efficient since you’ll need to buy refill rolls many times.

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Some oscillating fans might be too old and neglected to attempt cleaning them. If that’s the case, consider buying a new fan; we’ve reviewed the best fans on the market. We also recommend tower fans, including the new Dyson TP01, for a different kind of cooling experience that uses bladeless-fan technology.

How to clean a fan

If your fan is relatively clean, you could use a damp towel to wipe the grates and fan blades, and let it dry before use. But if it’s really caked with dust, you’ll want to dismantle it and give it a thorough soapy wash, which we’ll show you how to below.

Before you begin cleaning your fan, make sure that it is powered off and unplugged. Don’t try to clean the fan in the living room or a bedroom, since dust and debris could scatter when you’re taking the fan apart. It’s better to clean the fan outdoors or in the garage or kitchen.

1. Remove the fan’s grill. The front half of the grill is held to the rear half by four clips or screws. If your fan has screws, use a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew them. The fan in the following photos has four clips on the front grill that attach to the rear grill. Unlatch each clip, and remove the front grill.
2. Fill a sink with warm, soapy water. Dishwashing liquid works fine. If you’re doing this outside, you can use a large tub or a cooler, and make sure to use biodegradable soap if you’re dumping this onto your yard or drains.
3. Unscrew the blade nut. Usually, it’s a reverse nut, so to loosen, hold the blade and turn the nut clockwise.
4. Pull the fan blade off, and put it into the soapy water.
5. Loosen the nut that holds the rear grill to the motor stem. It’s a regular nut and will unscrew counter-clockwise. Put the nut into the soapy water.
6. Remove the rear grill. You’ll be washing this too.
7. Check the front of the motor for any dust. Use a can of compressed air to spray it off. Also check the rear of the motor, and spray a few quick bursts of air to clear any dust or dirt.
8. Wash the front and rear grills, fan blade and the two connecting nuts in soapy water. (Alternatively, if you’re washing the fan outside on a lawn or driveway, use a hose with a spray nozzle.)
9. Dry everything completely.
10. Reassemble in this order: rear grill, rear grill nut (tighten clockwise), fan blade, fan blade nut (tighten counter-clockwise), front grill. Hold the two grill halves together as you latch the grill clips.
11. Wait 15 minutes before plugging the fan in to make sure that all the parts you washed are dry.

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How to clean an air conditioner air filter

The first part of an air conditioner that gets dirty is the air filter. Room air conditioners pull all of the air in your room through this filter — usually many times per hour — so it’s designed to catch as much dust as it can without slowing down the flow of air.

A plugged up filter can be messy, just be thankful you don’t have to get all that hair and dust off the coils inside!

How often should you clean your air conditioner?

You should clean a washable screen filter before it has collected enough dust to slow down the air going through it. If you can’t see the metal fins anymore because of dust, it’s definitely time to clean. Also check the filter if the sound of air flowing through it changes from a low “whoosh” to a whistling sound.

Tools for filter cleaning:

• Garden hose with sprayer, or a bathtub or big utility sink
• Kitchen sponge

Filter cleaning steps:

1. Remove the filter carefully, and try not to knock any clumps of dust onto your floor. If your air conditioner has a paper filter inside the mesh screen, remove it before rinsing
2. Take the filter somewhere you can spray it thoroughly with water, like in a tub with a hand-held shower head or outside with a garden hose nozzle
3. Use warm (not too hot) water to rinse away the dust until the filter is clean
4. Use a sponge if there’s built-up hair
5. Tap the filter to shake off most of the water, and let it air-dry
6. Re-install the filter

Disposable air conditioner filters

If your air conditioner uses a disposable filter — this is the case for all central air conditioners — you should replace it if it starts to smell or if it’s clogged with dust. Usually the trapped dust and hair will smell bad long before it has a big impact on performance, but if you live in a dusty area you may want to replace the filter more frequently, or consider using an air purifier to cut down on the dust in your home.

If you smell mold when you turn your air conditioner on, definitely check for a damp, dirty filter.

How to clean air conditioner coils

Every air conditioner has two coils: An evaporator coil, which pulls heat out of the air in your house, and a condenser coil that pushes that heat into the air outside.

Tools you’ll need for coil cleaning:

• Vacuum with soft brush attachment

or

• Garden hose with sprayer
• (Optional) Foaming coil cleaner
• (Optional) Fin comb

Coil cleaning steps:

1. Disconnect power from the air conditioner
2. Remove covers or shrouds so you can access the coil fins
3. Vacuum with a soft brush or rinse with water to clean light dust
4. Use a foaming cleaner to clean heavy grime, then rinse
5. Replace all covers
6. Reconnect power

Repairing coil fins

The metal coils are covered in fins, and keeping these clean is an essential part of keeping your system in top shape. If fins are bent, they can block air from flowing the same way an obstruction can, so if you see dents it’s a good idea to straighten them with a fin comb when you clean your coil.

Central air conditioner coils

In a central HVAC system, the condenser is the big box sitting outside. A once-over with a vacuum or leaf blower might be all you need for yearly maintenance, but for some systems it’s easier to just wash it with a hose (after you disconnect the power.)

The evaporator coil in a central air conditioner is more difficult to get at. Consequently, evaporator coils have filters installed to keep dust out, but if the filter is leaking or not installed correctly dust and hair can still slip by. If your air conditioner is not performing as well as it should, an HVAC technician will probably do a pressure check to see if there’s an obstruction before they take apart the air handler cabinet.

How to clean a window air conditioner without removing it

Window air conditioners have the same set of two coils, but on a smaller scale, with the condenser coil hanging out of your window and the evaporator coil sitting just inside.

The outside of a window air conditioner is sometimes tricky to access without removing it from the window, since the upper window sash is really the only thing keeping the unit from sliding or tipping out.

If you can’t reach the back of the unit with a vacuum, LG’s maintenance guide suggests a gentle rinse with a garden hose.

The inside evaporator coil is easy to access, and after you clean the filter you can spray the fins with a mild household cleaner or a foaming cleaner like professionals sometimes use.

Both condenser and evaporator coils are waterproof, but it’s still best to unplug your air conditioner before cleaning it.

Mold, rust, and water build-up

Evaporator coils collect water from your air whenever they run. If that water can’t drain away, you can get mold or rust growing in the system.

Central air conditioners

You should be able to find a clean-out port for your evaporator drain pipe, and you can test this every season with a glass of water to make sure water is draining. If it’s not draining, the same strategies that apply to sink and shower drains also apply here. If you have mold or mildew growing in your filter, check to make sure that water isn’t dripping down from the evaporator coil into the rest of the air handler.

Window air conditioners

Window units are designed to drain condensation into the pan at the bottom of the unit and then outside, which is why they need to be installed with a slight tilt. Most new window units are designed to keep a small amount of water in that drip pan, rather than draining it through a hole, so that a “flinger” fan can splash the water onto the compressor and condenser and make the system more efficient.

If you use a window unit regularly the water in the drip pan shouldn’t cause any problems, but if water sits for a long time mold and rust can start to grow. Make sure to let a window air conditioner dry completely before storage, or mold can grow all over the styrofoam baffles inside. A mild bleach solution will take care of mold, but you’ll have to take the air conditioner apart to get at it. Minor rust in the drip pan is easy to clean with a rust remover.

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Why vacuum?

Dust, pollen and other asthma-inducing allergens circulate in our breathing air everyday, and they settle into carpets and in between floorboards and tile grout. A little known fact is that humans shed 30,000 – 40,000 skins cells an hour, and in 24 hours, they can add up to 1 million skin cells. Where does all that shed skin go? It collects in dust that accumulates all over your home.

Adding to this dust collection is our hair, which the American Academy of Dermatologists estimates to be 50 to 100 strands per day. If you have longer hair, this normal hair loss is more noticeable and gets entwined in carpet fibers.

Cats and dogs also shed regularly, and they — along with most other pets, including birds and reptiles — shed microscopic flecks of skin known as dander that can trigger allergic skin and sinus responses in their owners. Also consider that indoor/outdoor pets track in bacteria that can cause intestinal illness.

Something you might not be aware of: many vacuums actually kick back dust and allergens back into the air. Older vacuums are usually the culprits, so look for a newer model that has a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter, like one of the Dyson vacuums. Another option is to add an air purifier — especially in an allergy-sufferer’s bedroom — which should help clear your air of most allergens.

Basically, vacuuming is essential for maintaining good health. A recent study by Indiana University cites that vacuuming (and all home hygiene) increases physical activity for stay-at-home people and improves mental well-being in seeing the rewards of their efforts.

How often should you vacuum each floor type?

Carpets: twice a week

Carpets and area rugs serve another purpose besides decorating the home: They trap airborne particles and thus keep them out of the air we breathe. But other than professional steam-cleaning, the only way to remove the entrapped allergens, dust and tracked-in dirt is by vacuuming them twice a week.

We’ve tested dozens of vacuums, and the best one for thick carpet is a powerful upright vacuum, like the Shark – Apex, which has a lift-away canister that you can easily carry from room to room. The lift-away canister will also help you suck up those dust bunnies under your bed once and for all.

Area rugs: twice a week

Area rugs should also be vacuumed twice a week, but you’ll need a versatile canister vacuum that can handle multiple surfaces, for example, the Kenmore – Elite. The floors underneath the area rug should be vacuumed as well, and if you have hardwood floors, a vacuum specifically designed to handle hardwood floors will be the most effective.

A general rule-of-thumb is if the area rug covers more than three-fourths of your floor, then the floor beneath the rug can be vacuumed every other week.

Non-carpeted floors: once a week

Hardwood floors and kitchen tile floors don’t cling onto dust and bacteria as hungrily as carpets. Their flat construction and sealant or glaze prevent grime from building up. However, dirt can still collect between floorboards, beneath kitchen cabinets, under appliances and in tile grouting.

You only need to vacuum these surfaces once a week, but you’ll need a vacuum that can handle carpets as well as hardwood floors, like the Shark – Rocket, a stick vacuum that’s been specifically designed for both surfaces. For occasional spills and spot-vacuuming on non-carpeted floors and hard-to-reach corners, a handheld vacuum will do the trick, like the budget-priced Dirt Devil – Scorpion.

High-traffic areas: every two days

Hallways, kitchens, mudrooms and children’s play areas are considered high-traffic areas and need to be vacuumed more often than low-traffic areas, such as guest rooms or formal dining rooms used mostly for special occasions.

High-traffic areas should be vacuumed every two days. If all of this vacuuming has you weary just thinking about, there are great lightweight vacuums that will ease arm fatigue and make the job a lot easier.

If you have pets: daily

Certain dogs and cats don’t shed as much as others, but they all shed. It’s better to avoid build up of hair and dander by vacuuming every day, especially if you or a family member has allergies. This may seem like an onerous task, but it can be a quick going-over with a pet hair vacuum, like the handy Black+Decker that automatically senses when you’re vacuuming carpet, upholstery or bare floors.

If you only have time for occasional vacuuming, then focus on the areas where your pet spends the most time, like a pet bed, chair or couch and around the litter box.

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Cleaning your bike chain is a simple process since you don’t need to actually remove the chain from your bike.

Tools you’ll need

• Several rags
• A stiff brush, like this one, or a hard toothbrush
• Bio degreaser
• Bike chain lubricant, wet or dry, depending on terrain and weather conditions
• A chain-cleaning tool (optional)

Steps for cleaning a bike chain

1. Put your bike on a stand or horizontal rack, like one of our top picks for best bike rack. You’ll want to keep your bike elevated and its wheels free-moving while you clean the chain.

2. Apply some bio degreaser on a clean, dry rag, and hold the rag to the chain. Revolve the pedal backward slowly, keeping the rag on the chain as it moves. If your chain is extra dirty and grimy, you can use the chain-cleaning tool. Fill the tool’s receptacle with bio degreaser and run the chain through the tool.

3. To remove dirt from the cassette (the sprocket cluster attached to the rear wheel’s hub), apply bio degreaser to the stiff brush. Hold the brush on the cassette while pedaling the chain forward. Make sure to get the brush bristles in between the chain links.

4. If there’s still built-up grime, use the rag to “floss” it out in between the gears.

5. Wait for the degreaser to dry.

6. Apply the lubricant to the chain, one drop at a time between each link, slowly revolving the pedal backward.

7. Hold another clean rag to the chain, pedaling backward, and remove any excess lubricant.

8. Take your bike down off the rack. You’re ready to ride!

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Important features to consider

Small differences in the design of a toilet brush can make a big difference in the cleanliness of your bathroom. We looked for brushes that enable the quickest and most-thorough toilet cleaning, and are long-lasting. We also looked for brushes that are easy to rinse and hide away discreetly when you’re finished with chores.

Shape of the toilet-brush head: Depending on which areas of your toilet get the dirtiest, you’ll want a toilet-brush head that’s shaped to reach under the toilet rim. Look for a design that has a curved head or long bristles, which allow a brush to fit easily into tough-to-reach places.

Bristle type: Most toilet-brush bristles are made of nylon, and we prefer this stiff plastic material for scrubbing. Silicone brushes are less common and a bit more expensive; they’re flexible and easier to clean, but they don’t scrub as well. The way bristles are set in the brush can also affect how long the brush takes to dry, so watch out for dense, criss-crossing bristles that trap moisture and grime.

Handle material and length: A toilet brush’s handle can make the difference between a good and great brush. The handle should be stiff enough to help you scrub, but it also shouldn’t get in your way. Handles that are too long, too short or that bend at odd angles can make the cleaning process harder.

Storage: Most people agree that the toilet-bowl brush shouldn’t be the focal point of a bathroom, so an unobtrusive, easy-to-store brush is key. All of the toilet brushes we tested came with their own storage, so we took their holders into consideration when deciding upon our top picks.

How we tested

We devised a system for testing our selections for cleaning power, durability and overall hygiene.

Cleaning: We cleaned at least two different toilets with each of our brushes and rated the overall experience on a scale from one to four stars, with one for “made cleaning worse” and four for “made cleaning great.” We considered how long it took for us to reach all areas of the toilet bowl, whether we had difficulty with hard-to-reach spots and to account for brush coverage, how much of the toilet-bowl cleaner was left untouched.

Durability: We tested durability by pressing the bristles into the toilet bowl as hard as possible to see if they warped. We approximated what might happen when you’re cleaning a particularly dirty toilet or what might happen to your toilet brush with continued use over time. For disposable brushes, we assessed the ease of changing the disposable pad.

Odor and maintenance: After cleaning, we washed each brush as directed on the package – usually just by rinsing it in the cleaner-filled toilet water – and stored it for 12 hours. We then smelled the brush to determine whether it had a clean odor or smelled of mildew. We also noted if the storage allowed the brush to dry and how much, if any, water was trapped inside the holder.

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