Important features to consider

Type

Pruning shears or garden shears come in different types like bypass, anvil, ratchet, or thinning scissors. Each of these varieties has specific qualities that help in pruning your garden. For this review, we solely reviewed bypass and thinning shears.

• Bypass pruners are the most common and have sharp blades that cross when cutting and are best for green branches and stems up to half an inch (or more).
• Anvil pruners have a double-edged top knife that slices into a stationary base blade and is best for cutting dead branches or stems.
• Ratchet pruners have comfortable handles and are easier to maneuver for people who need assistance in leveraging grip strength.
• Thinning scissors are great for removing small stems like tomato plants or tiny seedlings.

Max cutting thickness

Many pruners indicate the maximum branch thickness they can successfully cut through. The size indication is often listed on the product packaging or online unless they were thinning pruners meant for smaller branches or stems. However, after testing, we noticed that these limits weren’t entirely accurate because they also depended on strength of the user’s hands.

Left/right-handed model availability

Are you left or right-handed? Do you have people in your household that are both? Most pruners are made for right-handed people, but brands carry left-hand-specific pruners. All the pruners we tested are right-handed but could work as left-handed pruners, except that the blade faces the opposite side so you lose some visibility of the branch you’re cutting.

Build quality and repairability

Build quality is important to consider when you buy any tools, especially if they’re used and stored outside. Pruning shears come with blades of hardened steel, titanium (coated), carbon steel, and nonstick. Depending on your gardening plans, each material has its pros and cons.

Coated blades are great to prevent sap from sticking if you’re cutting green stems–all you have to do is wipe them down after each use. If you want a longer-lasting tool, hardened or carbon steel blades are super durable, and you can sharpen them later on–however, they require more upkeep that involves using oil to prevent rust.

If you want a single product that lasts a lifetime, pick a pruner you can repair easily. Some pruner brands we tested sold new springs and blades (like Felco), but few sold or offered instructions on how to replace the garden shears. Budget brands were cheaper, but if you are concerned about repairing your tools and are more eco-conscious, then repairability is a big feature to consider.

Budget

Pruning shears come at various prices dependent on brand, type, and quality. You can find shears at prices ranging from under $10 to over $60. If you are tight on a budget, there are low-priced pruners that can do the job. However, we’ve found that pruners that were higher priced have better warranties, are made with sturdy materials, and are easy to repair. You typically need to pay a higher price for a longer-lasting tool.

How we selected

We tested over ten varieties of pruning shears ranging in price from $7 to $60. While there are different types of shears, we focused on the two most popular: bypass pruners and thinning scissors.

Bypass pruners are typically used for cutting green (or stems still attached to living plants or trees) and are the most widely available. Thinning scissors can also cut live plants, but their slimmer-shaped blades allow for delicate cuts to plants like tomatoes or vining plants like cucumbers.

Between these two types of pruners, we picked some of the most well-known brands like Felco and Corona Tools and budget brands like Gonicc and Vivosun.

How we tested

For several months during the Spring and Summer gardening seasons, we tested eleven pruners in different scenarios. We tested indoor and outdoor plants and trimmed thorny rose bushes and thicker citrus tree branches, crops like corn, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, kale, and other vegetables. Many pruners stated that they would easily cut through a maximum of ¾ of an inch thick stems; however, we quickly found out this couldn’t happen without a lot of grip strength.

We tested each pruner on average and smaller-sized hands to review comfort levels and ergonomics, especially for a few pruners specifically made for smaller hands. For reference, we tested each pruner with two gardeners with small (6 ½ x 3 inches) and average-sized (7 1/4 x 3 1/2 inches) hands.

Lastly, we compared the durability and maintenance of each pruner. Depending on the blade material and the pruner’s overall repairability, some pruners require higher maintenance after each use, while others just need a quick wipe.

The post The 10 Best Garden & Pruning Shears appeared first on Your Best Digs.

They call it a 2nd row console organizer, but to me it is a back seat trash bin and this thing completely improved my experience using the car. Having a dedicated trash bin meant no more random paper scraps, napkins, or food containers getting stashed in places it shouldn’t be.

Much of the car is covered in a black felt type material that isn’t the easiest to clean if food or other liquids get stuck to it. Having this silicone, easy to dump and easy to wash container helps keep the car organized is worth it. The price is quite steep at $40 but I’ve yet to find a better solution for my car trash.

Fits 2020-2023 Model Y.

Basenor – center console organizer tray

The center console below the car’s touchscreen is pretty spacious, and if you’re to really make use of all the space in there it means stacking your items on top of each other. This makes it hard to access stuff since you’ll be sifting through items often.

Enter the sliding console organizer. A few other brands make it, but I love this one from Basenor. For me, this brand has a pretty good quality track record with accessories for the car so far. The organizer is felted black, matching the stock look and feel of the console area this slides into.

This one fits the 2021-2023 Model 3 and 2020-2023 Model Y.

Basenor – armrest hidden storage box

Here’s another winner from the Basenor brand. I tried another design of this center console organizer from Taptes and it was horrible (see bottom of this post). This one from Basenor fixes the issue of the door falling out all the time in an unexpected way.

Basenor’s design has the sliding door on a track, which has two lock positions for close and open. I must say that the plastic finish on this model has lots of frayed edges, like you can clearly tell the product was injection molded, and never had the spillover filed off or sanded down.

Even with that pitfall, this product actually works. You never really have to see it, so it’s ok to overlook the finish since this thing just works.

This fits all years Model Y and Model 3.

Nansure – mud flaps

It seems like depending on where you live, your Tesla may come from the factory with mud flaps already installed. But here in Southern California, ours did not come with mud flaps. There are a few brands out there that seems identical, but I tried out the Nansure brand flaps to help reduce paint damage from rocks kicking up from the tires.

These were a fun and easy install. You just pop out some clips already on the car and install these flaps along the frame, locking them in with the included clips. The only gripe I had was with one of the flaps. It may be a poorly formed flap, or our car wasn’t uniform (it’s impossible to know) but one of the final clips I had to install on a flap was incredibly difficult. It required a ton of force to lock in potentially putting a lot of strain on the flap, but many months after the install, all is still good.

After driving with these mud flaps for over a year, they still look great. No issues with anything being damaged, popping out, or misalignment. I’d buy this again, or the Basenor mud flaps we also tested–whichever is cheaper at the moment.

Fits Model Y years 2020-2023.

Basenor – Mud Flaps

The Nansure mud flaps weren’t perfect, but they got the job done. You can’t find a set of mud flaps for under $35 so I went with a different brand on this one for variety and tried out these Basenor mud flaps. Some brands look like obvious replicas of each other but these Basenor flaps had a different shape, so I wanted to see if it made any real difference. In the end, they’re essentially the same though.

The main differences compared to Nansure were that Basenor’s back mud flaps were larger and hooked into one extra bolt for added stability and alignment. It also came with a metal clip for each flap which Nansure didn’t have. The clip is meant for micro adjustment, and locking in the flap position. It clips the flap to the plastic trim on the car. Although the idea sounds good, all of these changes made no noticeable difference in the final appearance at least in my experience. And after a full year of using the Nansure mud flaps, there’s not a huge difference in the end. I would go with whichever one you can buy at a lower price at the given moment.

Fits Model Y years 2020-2023.

Basenor – windshield sunshade

There are three main reasons to get a windshield shade, and its primarily to protect your dash, reduce cabin temps (thereby keeping your seats from getting super hot), and providing a little bit of privacy. I tried the windshield shades from Basenor and like their other products I’ve used, it didn’t disappoint.

You can see from the photo that it’s not 100% coverage because the product sags a bit. It stays in place by being wedged into the dash, and held up at the top by folding down your car visors. In terms of keeping the heat out, I think it does keep the steering wheel and seats from getting too hot that you need to wait before driving. However, if its hot outside, the cabin temps will inevitably hit 90 degrees plus eventually.

I have 50% windshield tint and 20% tint all around, and even with extra shades put up, nothing really keeps the heat out completely. The shades may buy you some more time, but I suspect its only a matter of a few minutes difference.

Folding these shades up takes a little getting used to. You can do it in the car if no ones sitting in the passenger seat, otherwise you’ll need to slide it out the door and fold it up. It folds easily and packs into a neat bag–it fits in the driver door and doesn’t fall out even though it sticks out a lot. All this to say, it has faults but it works, and unless you want to upgrade to an even bulkier folding type shade I don’t see any better alternatives out there. The Basenor brand is great, but I suspect all the other folding shade brands are identical to this.

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

Motrobe – cup holder insert

I didn’t expect much from this cup holder insert. After all, it just follows the same outline as the cup holder, what was the point? I ended up loving this thing.

One side has a smaller compartment than the other, so the item only fits in one way. The three nubs that stick out in each hole very firmly grab the cups and bottles I put into it, making it feel very secure. For many months, I used it with the Yeti from our insulated tumblers post and it works perfectly.

If you happen to spill anything, or when you just want to clean it out, it easily slides out and washes very easily as silicone does. It’s much easier than trying to clean out spilled liquids into the stock compartment without an insert. I was surprised to see that this beat out Basenor’s cup holder insert (see below for our review), and highly recommend it.

Fits the new console in Model 3 and Model Y years 2021-2023.

Basenor – latch covers

These latch covers come with eight pieces, two covers for each door. They claim it is to prevent damage or rust from the exposed metal latches on each door. Perhaps I haven’t owned the car long enough to have rust develop so I can’t say if this is really going to achieve that.

However they look good. It’s a very subtle mod to parts on the car that aren’t really exposed all the time, but it is an upgrade nonetheless.

Fair warning, that these go on much easier than they come off. I tried removing one of these and it flexes the rigid plastic a lot, and part of it broke off. You should never really need to remove it once installed though.

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

EVFIT – performance pedal pads

I bought two different brands and these pedals from EVFIT are identical to the performance pedals from Topfit—both having the Topfit brand name on the box. They’re an easy choice if you want a little bit of a visual mod to your pedals.

I must say that the installation process for these are incredibly difficult. Perhaps they designed it this way to make sure the pedals never fall off while driving, but the cutout designed on the back of these are an extremely tight fit. It requires you to really stretch out and wrangle the thick, hard, rubber on the back to fully wrap the metal pedals for installation.

Finish on the pedals could use more polish as there’s slight scratching and glue trails from manufacturing that weren’t cleaned up. I would say that at very certain angles, the reflectiveness of the pedals can draw your attention to the pedals, instead of on the road where they should be.

Fun fact: it wasn’t until installing these pedals that I realized (after six months of driving this car) that our acceleration pedal did not come with a pedal cover from the factory. I and everyone else who has driven this car didn’t notice either.

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

Nestour – screen protector

This Nestour screen protector is my favorite glossy finish screen protector I’ve tested on this car. 4 out of 5 stars: lets talk about why.

The other two I tested below had its own issues. The Spigen has a matte finish which causes distortion I can’t stand–but if you love matte finish to avoid glare or fingerprints you may be willing to make the sacrifice. The SUMK below provides a glossy finish too but it can be very difficult to get a perfect alignment with the way you’re supposed to install it.

I loved that Nestour tries to give a plastic alignment guide to mimic what Spigen does in making alignment foolproof. The problem is that the guide is too thin, and the way the screen protector is held in place makes a flop around. There is still room to misalign the protector–there’s wiggle room when using the guide in all directions and you need to make sure you don’t place it too close or else the protector might start to stick to the screen before you’re ready. These were not issues present on the Spigen.

The cut of the glass doesn’t match the car’s screen perfectly–the corners of the protector are too sharp (small corner radius) vs the actual screen. I used to design screen protectors too, and this just seems like a sloppy oversight in design from this brand, which perhaps many people may not notice.

However if you take your time like I did with microadjustments with the guide half on the screen, you can get a perfect looking installation much easier than with SUMK’s tape alignment system. If I had to buy another screen protector I’d go with Nestour despite its shortcomings.

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

Spigen – Tesla matte screen protector

The Spigen has an amazing alignment system, but I personally hated the distortion matte finish gives. If you want matte this may be your best bet.

I like having screen protectors on our devices since they inevitably get banged up or scratched, so thought it would be good to try this screen protector out for the screen on the Model Y too. Months went by without a screen protector and aside from fingerprint smudges on the screen, so this screen is probably much less susceptible to damage than say the one on our phones.

However I wanted to give this a shot anyway. I’ve tested Spigen’s EZ Fit system before and it is genius. They design a perfectly fitting plastic guide so it’s impossible to do anything but a perfectly aligned install. Spigen’s products always cost more because of this, but depending on how good you can be at a free floating installation–this might be worth it. To us, it’s worth saving the anxiety and installation is a breeze.

The main issue is with the matte finish of this product. I wanted to reduce glare a bit so went for this as it seems to be Spigen’s only finish option, however it noticeably degrades the clarity of the screen. For about a week, it really bothered me but we’ve gotten used to it. If you are nit-picky, it may bother you too.

Update: A few days into using this screen protector I started to get used to the haze the matte finish causes. But I definitely remembered how clear it was just before installing this. After many months of using this screen protector I wanted to try another screen protector brand (see the next item on this review!), so I removed this Spigen one for an idea of how much it hazes up the screen. It’s less pronounced when directly on the screen itself, but here’s what it looks like:

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

SUMK – glossy tempered glass screen protector

If you must have a glossy screen protector (like me) the SUMK is one in a sea of mostly matte. Installation is not foolproof for dead-on centering and avoiding dust, but it can be done if you’re careful. So if you’ve never really installed a screen protector before, or you are extremely picky requiring a perfect install, something like the Spigen protector above may serve you better if you can live with a hazy matte appearance.

There are almost no options for glossy screen protectors for the Tesla Model Y and Model 3 and I have no idea why. For other devices, Spigen usually has both matte and glossy options, like many other manufacturers do. But I finally found this glossy Tesla screen protector from SUMK and wanted to try it. I used the Spigen one for many months and it did its job of protecting the screen (see above), but I never loved the hazy appearance it added to the screen.

Installation: So I removed it and installed the one from SUMK. For around $23, this screen protector is not bad, but it could be better. I’m definitely spoiled by the system Spigen developed for installing screen protectors, leaving zero room for installation error. SUMK tries to achieve this with these four silicone guides that are peel and stick. The instructions aren’t 100% clear on what orientation to stick them to your screen, but after reading through the later steps, it’s more obvious how to use these.

The user is meant to place the screen protector on the guides which has it hovering over the screen surface giving you a chance to align the guides until it’s perfect before finally pressing to adhere the glass. The problem is that you can’t really move the guides around in a meaningful way so I ended up sort of manually aligning the screen protector and it came out fine.

Dust: Another problem with installing this is that there isn’t a great way to hold the screen protector while removing the film that goes over the sticky side of glass. You want to avoid touching the exposed glue so you either need another person to help with this installation, or you can hold the screen protector against a surface to stabilize it as you peel the extremely static-filled and dust-attracting film. It’s a less than elegant installation process that introduced dust onto the sticky side that is impossible to remove.

I’ve designed, produced, and installed my own screen protectors for 10+ years so I’ve definitely had enough practice. I know every screen protector installation situation can be unique, but let’s just say that if you’re a perfectionist this product is going to take some extra patience to get right. It’s pretty hard to photograph to show the clarity of this, but the image quality is MUCH clearer than the Spigen matte protector.

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

Xipex – rear trunk organizer

These go in the two bucket storage compartments on both sides of the trunk. The main reason to get the Xipex – rear trunk organizer is to line those compartments for easy cleaning, otherwise those compartments are just exposed felt like the rest of the trunk area is, and that’s enough of a reason for me! These are not cheap though.

It’s made of TPE, or thermoplastic elastomers, and it feels a little rubbery. They grip, and wash off really well relative to felted surfaces. Xipex cleverly designed these to fit: you actually lose a tiny bit of storage space with an air gap around the whole liner, but it makes sliding them in to install much easier. The lip around the top makes it look like a flush and perfect fit.

To top it off, the felt covers that go on top to close it off is also a flush and perfect fit–they match the car’s original black felt very well too. The only gripe with these felt covers is it takes a while to figure out the left and right units, and you need to install them in a very specific way so it goes in. They need to be slid in towards the outside of the car and then pushed down, which is not obvious at first. You can’t try to angle in any of the corners first or just slam it in. It’s a very snug fit, which is worth the trade-off once you figure it out. It also means if anyone not familiar with your car is trying to open or close the lids, they’re likely not going to figure it out without direction.

Fits 2020-2022 Model Y 5-seater (does not fit 7-seater model).

CarQiWireless – steering wheel tray

It looks silly, and it feels silly whipping this steering wheel tray out each time. But it works. This plastic table is hollow inside so it’s relatively light, but it slides under the steering wheel and rests on itself. The way it stays on is a bit unsettling, but it held all of our meals just fine without any spills.

I’ve ended up using it a lot over the past few months as its a great way to keep greasy or crumby foods from getting all over the car. For storage, this steering wheel tray fits diagonally in the trunk’s two open compartments too so its not sliding around when not in use. Easy to use, easy to store, and wash with soap when needed. If you regularly eat or need a desktop in your car this tray is an easy choice.

Fits all Tesla models Y, 3, X, S.

BMZX / Topfit – folding tray for food & laptops

Let’s get it out of the way. This folding tray from BMZX is expensive–four times as expensive as the CarQiWireless plastic tray we tested above. To be clear, I purhcased the BMZX brand, but it is stamped with “Topfit”. I’m sure it’s identical to this tray from Topfit.

Instead of hooking onto the steering wheel, this hefty, folding seat tray feels much more substantial, and its much heavier than the CarQiWireless. The surface area is much larger, and it feels much more secure when eating on it. And since it rests on two armrests on your left and right it feels actually strong enough to support the weight of a laptop if you wanted to work on it.

It’s easy to wipe down and fold up when you’re done, but there’s no real good spot to keep it in the cabin unless you throw it in the backseat on the floor. So I keep it in the trunk in the thin compartment where the charger bag is stored. Overall I really like this product so if you spend a lot of time eating or working in your car it may very well be worth the high price tag.

Fits all Tesla models Y, 3, X, S.

Taptes – all-weather floor mats (front & back seats)

The original Tesla floor mats are carpet and like a sponge. Even if you don’t regularly camp with your Tesla, and don’t live in rainy or muddy areas, even regular use will have these carpet mats soaking everything up. This was not acceptable to us and its disappointing Tesla even comes with these mats.

I wanted to try out the very popular 3D MAXpider mats for the Model Y but there seemed to be many other brands with identical designs, in the same material, without the unsightly logo. I gave the Taptes mats a shot which fits the Model Y only. The fit is about 90-95%. It’s good enough but could be a better fit around the edges at some parts.

The part of the mat that goes up the front wall in the front seats don’t sit flush against the car wall/floor so it’s a bit odd there’s a gap visually, but it hasn’t caused any real issues yet. I’m not sure if other brands solve all these problems, but if you’re looking to save $20-30, these are a solid choice.

This fits 2021-2023 Model Y.

LEIMO – lifting jack pads

Since the whole bottom of the car is covered in batteries underneath, you can’t just use a normal jack anywhere at the risk of breaking a part of the underside not meant to carry the car’s weight. There are four designated spots on the bottom of the car where you can use a jack and it should be used with lifting jack pads to disperse the weight.

If you need to make any mods on your car at home, using lifting jack pads are a must. These are well built jack pads with a very nice case.

These pads will fit any Tesla models 3, Y, S, X.

Vliigts – cabin camera cover

If you ever have an eerie feeling of a camera being on you while driving your Tesla, you’re not alone. Yes, I know Tesla claims that these interior cameras never leave the car but it just doesn’t feel right to me, so I slapped on a camera cover on it. I used the one from Vliigts brand and it works, but in all honesty these are probably all very similar as long as they are large enough for this camera.

The adhesive hasn’t come off, or the slider hasn’t come off even though the surface it adheres to is semi curved, which is great. I got the slider in case I ever “needed” to open it up for full self driving which may require this, but I have never actually needed to open this cover. I’ve read that the car’s cabin camera can be used to watch you to see if you’re paying attention to the road, or if you’re futzing around on your phone and ping you to “move the steering wheel” to prove you’re paying attention.

They say if you have the camera covered, the car doesn’t know if you’re paying attention and can ping you more often. So far this hasn’t been an issue for me, but use this at your own discretion!

Fits all years Model 3 and Model Y.

Basenor – cup holder insert (not recommended)

The concept of this cup holder insert made sense to me. Reduce the gap or put pressure on any cups, bottles or cans you put in here so they rattle less. In actual use of this, it didn’t really provide much benefit.

Maybe if you only drink out of plastic water bottles it has an added benefit (but really you should consider switching to a reusable water bottle), but the springy part that puts tension on the drinking vessel is too weak, and not grippy enough to really make any noticeable difference. I’d avoid this and go for the silicone liner I tested (see above).

Fits Model Y and Model 3.

Taptes – armrest organizer (not recommended)

This center console / armrest organizer from Taptes was infuriating. Out of the box and in photos it looks nice, yes. The concept is fine, and the plastic finish is actually nice (something you don’t appreciate until you see rough edges on others like the other, better rated, console organizer I tested).

The problem with it is the overly engineered door that stays on via magnets. It’s neat, until you try to use it. The door pops off in an unpredictable way each time and you have to catch it or else it will fall into the compartment, on the floor, or otherwise. Definitely not something you should use without looking, while driving, and really ever since there are better designs to buy from other companies.

Fits the 2021-2023 Model 3 and 2020-2023 Model Y with newer refresh console.

The post The 20 Best Tesla Model Y & Model 3 Accessories appeared first on Your Best Digs.

Cleaning your bike chain is a simple process since you don’t need to actually remove the chain from your bike.

Tools you’ll need

• Several rags
• A stiff brush, like this one, or a hard toothbrush
• Bio degreaser
• Bike chain lubricant, wet or dry, depending on terrain and weather conditions
• A chain-cleaning tool (optional)

Steps for cleaning a bike chain

1. Put your bike on a stand or horizontal rack, like one of our top picks for best bike rack. You’ll want to keep your bike elevated and its wheels free-moving while you clean the chain.

2. Apply some bio degreaser on a clean, dry rag, and hold the rag to the chain. Revolve the pedal backward slowly, keeping the rag on the chain as it moves. If your chain is extra dirty and grimy, you can use the chain-cleaning tool. Fill the tool’s receptacle with bio degreaser and run the chain through the tool.

3. To remove dirt from the cassette (the sprocket cluster attached to the rear wheel’s hub), apply bio degreaser to the stiff brush. Hold the brush on the cassette while pedaling the chain forward. Make sure to get the brush bristles in between the chain links.

4. If there’s still built-up grime, use the rag to “floss” it out in between the gears.

5. Wait for the degreaser to dry.

6. Apply the lubricant to the chain, one drop at a time between each link, slowly revolving the pedal backward.

7. Hold another clean rag to the chain, pedaling backward, and remove any excess lubricant.

8. Take your bike down off the rack. You’re ready to ride!

The post How to Clean Bike Chains appeared first on Your Best Digs.

The 9 infrared thermometers we tested

How we selected thermometers to test

Once we researched how infrared (IR) thermometers work, we looked into the ways that people actually use them. Amazon reviews were enlightening, as there were not as many people who use an IR thermometer in the kitchen as we thought. The most frequently cited uses were testing the temperature of a pizza stone, monitoring simmering sugar for candy-making and gauging the correct temperature of oil for deep-frying. A surprising number of people mention that their IR thermometer’s pinpoint lasers were also excellent for entertaining a bored cat.

We found more relevant information from restaurant workers, who use IR thermometers for monitoring the temperature of food on a buffet line, HVAC workers for checking ventilation and heating systems and electricians for finding overloaded circuit breakers, hot spots and other electrical issues. We then checked out their recommendations on Amazon, authentic review sites and Reddit threads and selected the IR thermometers with the highest ratings for accuracy, durability and user-friendliness.

How we tested

Iced water

Most manufacturers recommend checking an IR thermometer’s accuracy with a simple test of filling a glass with crushed ice and adding water. The ice and water are then stirred until the ice begins to melt. The intention is to get the water chilled to 32 ℉ and then aim the IR thermometer into the center of the glass. Our two top picks, the ennoLogic – eT650D and the ThermoPro TP-30 hit 31.9 ℉ or 32 ℉ every time.

Pizza stone

We heated a pizza stone in a 550 ℉ oven and measured its temperature. The Klein Tools – IR5 was the only thermometer that matched our calibrated oven thermometer.

Refrigerator and freezer

Our refrigerator was set at 36 ℉, and the freezer was set at 0 ℉. We took several measurements in the same non-reflective spot in the center of the freezer and fridge. All of the thermometers were accurate with the fridge temperature; readings for the freezer, however, fluctuated.

Grill

We preheated an outdoor gas grill to 505 ℉ and took measurements in four corners. After each measurement, we closed the grill cover and allowed it to reheat, monitoring its temperature with our top pick for probe thermometer to measure its temperature on the surface. Again, the ennoLogic and the ThermoPro TP-30 were the most accurate.

Important features to consider

Accuracy: Because an IR thermometer only records surface temperatures, a number of factors can affect its accuracy, such as ambient temperature, dust, steam, smoke or frost. Every thermometer we tested had an accuracy difference that was plus/minus 3.5–4.0 ℉ or 2% of the reading.

During our tests, there was also variation in readings of the same IR thermometer between two or three degrees. This difference was especially prevalent when we took readings of a refrigerator freezer with fluctuations between three and eight degrees. Two thermometers stood out as the most consistently accurate with repeated testing: the ennoLogic – eT650D and the ThermoPro TP-30.

Distance-to-spot ratio: This is the diameter of the circle of surface area that an IR thermometer measures relative to its distance. Most newer models of IR thermometers have a 12:1 distance-to-spot ratio, which means they measure the average temperature of a 1-inch-diameter circle from a distance of 12 inches. For every additional 12 inches away from the target, the spot increases as well; for example, at 24 inches, the diameter increases to 2 inches, at 36 inches, the diameter will be 3 inches.

However, the farther the distance, the IR thermometer records a greater range of temperatures measured around the spot and gives an average measurement of those temperatures. So the general rule is that you should be as close as possible to the object to get a precise measurement.

Fixed vs. adjustable emissivity: Three of the seven IR thermometers we tested had a fixed emissivity of .95 or .97, which is suitable for use in a kitchen for measuring the temperatures of food and liquids and some non-reflective inorganic material. However, if you want to measure a broader range of materials, then look for an IR thermometer that has a mode for adjusting the emissivity level calibration.

Dual-laser technology: An IR thermometer has a laser that helps you focus the spot you want to measure; IR thermometers with dual lasers were more accurate in our tests. The single-laser thermometers were trickier to pinpoint the exact spot we wanted to measure precisely. The dual-laser thermometers, however, showed exactly the spot we measured between two pinpricks of light.

Readable LCD screen: You might think that an easy-to-read LCD screen would be a given, but it’s not. The Klein Tools – IR5, Ultra Performance and ennoLogic thermometers had simple white-backlit screens with black numerals and were the easiest to read at a glance. The Mastercool had a multi-colored screen that was confusing to read. The two Etekcity and Nubee thermometers we tested had blue screens with black numerals, and more than once we had to squint to see their readings.

How does an infrared thermometer work?

Infrared energy is part of the electromagnetic light spectrum and is emitted from the surface of all organic and inorganic objects when they’re hot. The rate this energy is radiated out and absorbed into a material is called emissivity, and it is measured on a scale of 0.0 to 1.0. Most IR thermometers are pre-set at .95 or .97 emissivity, which covers the levels of materials that are derived from animals or plants. (Materials with reflective surfaces, such as polished aluminum have a much lower emissivity.)

An IR thermometer (also known as a pyrometer) has a lens that collects infrared energy from an object and funnels it into a detector, called a thermopile. The thermopile converts the energy into electricity, which is then displayed on the thermometer’s LCD screen. Although this process seems complex, it occurs in microseconds.

Unlike a probe thermometer, an IR thermometer is non-contact and can only measure external temperatures. It is designed to be used from a distance; for example, testing the temperature of a pizza oven or finding a hot spot on a grill. An IR thermometer is commonly used in restaurants, HVAC installation, house inspection and automotive repair.

You can’t use an IR thermometer, however, to check if your oven is calibrated, since the oven door needs to remain closed. To measure your oven’s temperature, use our top pick from our review of the best oven thermometer.

The post The 9 Best Infrared Thermometers appeared first on Your Best Digs.

Types of Bike Racks

Wall mount

This is the most common type of bike rack for either a vertical or horizontal mount. They can be as simple as a metal hook or a carefully designed adjustable bracket. In a vertical mount, the bike hangs off a rubber-coated hook by the front tire; in a horizontal mount, the bike hangs off two fixed arms by its frame.

A wall-mounted bike rack is ideal for small living spaces, since the bike’s footprint, when elevated, is reduced to the width of the bike’s handlebars (horizontal mount) or the diameter of the tires (vertical mount). Installation involves:

• Measuring how far off the floor the bike will hang
• Locating the studs in the wall where you plan to hang the bike by using a stud finder
• Drilling holes into the studs
• Screwing the rack’s base into the wall

Although several of the bike racks we tested included plastic drywall anchors, we strongly recommend that you do not install a bike rack into drywall alone: Even with the best drywall anchors, the shock of picking up and replacing the bike will eventually crack the drywall, and it will all come crashing down.

For a vertical mount, we also recommend purchasing separately (they’re not included with a vertical-mount bike rack) a wall plate that holds the back tire and prevents it from leaving scuff marks on the wall.

Free-standing

There are two types of free-standing bike racks: a parking rack and a gravity rack.

A parking rack is great for storing your bike in a garage or a larger living space and doesn’t require installation. It’s a folding metal frame that opens up, releasing a vertical arm that has a large hourglass-shaped spindle. The front bike wheel is rolled into the frame until the tire is held in place by the spindle. Although a free-standing rack is portable, convenient and easy-to-use, they can wobble and tip over when accidentally bumped.

A so-called gravity rack is designed to support one or two bikes upright in a horizontal position. Installation involves nothing more than screwing its ladder-like frame together and adjusting its arms from which the bike hangs. The rack simply leans against any wall. If you live in an apartment or rental home, and your landlord doesn’t allow holes to be drilled into walls, a gravity rack is your best option.

Pulley system

This type of bike storage is popular with people who have several bikes they need to store in their garage but have no floor space. It consists of two pulleys — positioned over the bike seat and handlebars — that are screwed into ceiling joists. Two double hooks are attached to the pulleys, which are then lowered, attached to the bike’s seat and handlebars. Pulling on the pulley ropes elevates the bike up to the ceiling. We did not test this type of bike storage because our tester’s garage did not have high-enough ceilings.

Whichever way you decide to hang your bike, always keep your tires fully inflated with one of the best bike pumps that we recommend. After installing and testing, we’ve ranked products below as the best bike rack for the home or garage.

The post The Best Bike Racks appeared first on Your Best Digs.

Table of contents

• Compare the best hand trucks
• The best full-size: Magliner – HMK119UA4
• The most compact: Magna Cart – MCX
• The best folding hand truck: Cosco – Shifter
• The other finalists we tested
• How we selected products to test
• Important features to consider
• How we tested
• The bottom line

Compare the best hand trucks

Hand Truck	$–$$$$ Scale	Type	Tire Type, Size	Weight (Lbs.)
1. Magliner - HMK119UA4	$$$$	Standard	Air, 10"	26
2. Magna Cart - MCX	$	Mini	Solid, 5"	6.6
3. Cosco - Shifter	$$	Folding Convertible	Solid, 5"	14
4. Milwaukee - 30019	$$	Standard	Air, 10"	22.6
5. Wesco - Maxi Mover	$$$	Mini	Solid, 7"	11
6. Milwaukee - 73777	$	Mini	Solid, 5"	9.6

The best full-size: Magliner – HMK119UA4

If you want a top-quality full-size hand truck to move loads heavier than 150 pounds, we think the Magliner – HMK119UA4 hits the sweet spot for price, features and quality.

The Magliner wheels and tires are a step up from what you get with less-expensive brands, and if you’re handling close to the rated capacity of your hand cart that should be a top priority. The last thing you want is a tire that will give way just as you start moving a heavy load.

The frame, nose-plate and handles on this hand truck are also top notch. The one drawback is that to save money, the hand truck is shipped in pieces. It’s simple to put together if you’re handy with a ratchet set, but we know that isn’t a job for everyone.

The Magliner’s frame is stiff, strong and looks great. It’s not a full-size appliance dolly, but we used it to move a washing machine for repairs, and it handled the weight and even got up the stairs admirably.

The Best Full-Size: Magliner - HMK119UA4

Magliner is well-represented among movers and delivery drivers, and their hand trucks are easy to find parts for. Not everyone will need all the features and strength of this model, but at less than $150 we think it's a worthwhile splurge if you actually use a hand truck all the time.

See Price at Amazon.com

You have a lot of options when you buy a full-size hand truck like this. You can get a different handle if you like individual grips or a grip that sticks out for loads that block a hoop handle like ours. For wheels, you can get foam-filled or solid tires for maintenance-free reliability on smooth floors. For a general-purpose hand truck, though, we think air-filled tires and a hoop handle are the most versatile.

If you don’t want to assemble the hand truck yourself, and you want to save some money, the Milwaukee full-size carts will do almost as well for about half the price. But if you’re using a hand truck often enough that you want to purchase one instead of renting or borrowing one, we think the quality and modular upgrades make the Magliner worthwhile. This is a tool you can be proud of, not something to hide in a dark corner.

Key takeaways

• The Magliner handles loads up to 300 pounds with ease.
• Its light aluminum frame is impressively rigid.
• Smooth-rolling tires and bearings are a clear step up from budget-priced options.
• Tools are required to assemble this hand truck.

The most compact: Magna Cart – MCX

The smallest hand truck we tested is the Magna Cart – MCX, and we think it’s the best buy for someone who only needs a small hand truck for a short trip — for example, moving a few cases of water bottles from a parking garage into a building and up an elevator.

This hand cart is popular with drivers for Doordash and Instacart, since it basically disappears in your trunk until you need it. The handle telescopes down like a rolling suitcase handle, from 39 inches to 25 inches tall when closed. The wheels are also spring-loaded to fold in when you fold up the nose plate.

The capacity of this cart becomes quickly apparent when you load it with more than 80 pounds. We tested with our favorite heavy-duty storage containers filled with water, and it was difficult to lift the tubs and wheel them around with the short handle.

We didn’t see any signs of strain on the wheels or nose plate when lifting a full 150-pound load, but the wear and tear on these tires would be pretty extreme if you tried to do that frequently.

The Magna Cart – MCI and the very-similar Milwaukee – 73777 (see below) are slightly less expensive, but they use steel tubing instead of aluminum so they’re a bit heavier. Their handles also don’t collapse down quite as small as the MCX.

Most Compact: Magna Cart - MCX

For making small deliveries, the compact folded size of this cart is a real asset. It's easy to unfold and stow away, and its mid-size wheels roll well on most surfaces.

See Price at Amazon.com

When we extended and collapsed the handle on the Magna Cart, we thought its large easy-to-grab release bar was more convenient than the push buttons on Milwaukee and Wesco collapsible carts. The drawback to this design is that you might accidentally lift the collapsed hand truck with your fingers on that red release bar, causing the handle to extend as you lift.

We would recommend this hand truck for use at trade shows or anywhere else you need to move a small pile of awkwardly shaped boxes. When everyone else is waiting for the convention-center loading-dock crew to loan out their one or two closely guarded delivery carts, you can just walk in with your compact hand truck and be ready for cocktail hour when everyone else is still setting up.

Key takeaways

• The Magna Cart – MCX fits neatly in a small trunk.
• Unfolding this cart is easy to do with only one hand.
• The rubber-covered wheels roll smoothly under reasonable loads.
• No easy parts-replacement options are provided.

The best folding hand truck: Cosco – Shifter

Some people need a flat-deck cart once in a while in addition to a hand truck, so the Cosco – Shifter offers you both. What’s more, it folds down into a very compact package for easy storage and transport.

Compared to the Magna Cart and other collapsing designs we tested, the Cosco takes slightly more work to unfold — a firm tug to get the handle unfolded into cart mode, then press a button and unfold the rest of the way into hand-truck mode.

The big advantage of this design is that when it’s fully unfolded, you have a nearly full-height handle for better leverage when you’re carting around heavier loads. The rated capacity of 300 pounds is more than we’d want to load it up with on a regular basis, but we’d definitely pick it over the more expensive Wesco – Maxi Mover for handling heavy objects.

The drawback to this design is that, while it’s handy to have both a hand truck and a cart sometimes, it’s not a very good cart: The caster wheels are small, the “bed” has holes in it and the handle is too short in this mode. If you’re moving a few boxes or a small crate around it’s pretty good, but then so is a regular hand truck, if you can strap the boxes so they don’t fall off.

The other competition for this type of hand truck is from full-size 2-in-1 models, like the Milwaukee – CHT800P. This type is basically the same as a Milwaukee – 30019 (see below) but with an extending handle and casters so it can roll around on its back. In comparison, the Cosco folds much smaller, costs half as much and doesn’t require you to fidget with cotter pins to lock it in place.

The Best Folding 2-in-1: Cosco Shifter

Even if you don't use the four-wheel hand-cart mode, this taller folding hand truck is better than the extra-compact models for heavier loads. It's no replacement for a full-size hand truck if you're moving something heavy, but it covers the middle of the range and offers extra flexibility.

See Price at Amazon.com

The “nose” plate on this hand truck is also pretty shallow, which isn’t a huge problem with reasonable loads, but it made us a bit nervous when moving bags of dirt and sand. For objects that might fall off in the upright mode, the cart mode works well, but that lovely long handle is shortened.

Looking over the range, this 2-in-1 design is a good fit for someone who needs to move objects that wouldn’t fit on the Magna Cart, but the wheels are too small for really big loads. Moving an appliance like a refrigerator is too much weight and bulk for a cart like this.

Key takeaways

• If you don’t know what kind of cart or dolly you need, consider the versatile Cosco – Shifter.
• The Cosco has a smaller nose than most folding hand trucks, but a much longer handle.
• For bigger items that don’t balance well, flat-bed mode is excellent.
• You can easily fit the Shifter in your trunk when it’s folded.
• Its small wheels are a bad fit for anything over 150 pounds.

The other finalists we tested

Milwaukee – 30019

If you want to purchase a hand truck rather than renting one, but can’t spend more than $75, the Milwaukee – 30019 is a reliable choice.

This hand truck is similar to the dozens of other mid-range hand trucks our tester has used in warehouses over the years. It has a few key features that we looked for specifically: large, air-filled tires for a smooth ride and metal hubs that won’t crack under a heavy load. You can save some money with plastic-wheel versions of this hand truck, but don’t expect them to be any more rugged than a compact folding hand truck.

If you’re buying a less-expensive hand truck like the Milwaukee, it’s a good idea to order for pick up at a local hardware store rather than having it delivered — that way you can double-check the tire inflation and wheel tracking before you take it home.

Wesco – Maxi Mover

For a folding hand truck, the Wesco – Maxi Mover has an impressive 275-pound load rating. Compared to the Magna Cart, the wheels are 7 inches instead of 5, and the handle is a few inches longer to give you better control of big loads.

Ultimately, we ranked the Wesco lower on our list because the handle is still shorter than the Cosco – Shifter, and that model is still smaller when folded. Wesco charges more than $100 for this collapsible hand cart, which might be worth spending if you’re looking for bigger wheels on a compact cart, but we wouldn’t ever pick it over the standard-size hand trucks when given the choice.

Milwaukee – 73777

It was a tight competition between the two most compact folding hand carts we tested, but the Milwaukee – 73777 was 5 inches when folded than the 25-inch Magna Cart. If you’re looking to spend as little as possible, the Milwaukee usually sells for about $10 less.

Other than the folded size and release-button location, the biggest difference is that the Magna Cart has a cast-alloy nose plate where the Milwaukee uses bent and welded steel. That adds up to 9.6 pounds compared to the 6.6 pounds with the Magna Cart.

How we selected products to test

Our lead researcher for this post has used hand trucks, platform trucks and pallet jacks at work for most of his life, for moving everything from construction supplies as a contractor to speaker systems as a sound engineer. He’s usually been able to borrow a hand truck from a friend when moving appliances or furniture, and he’s had to replace wheels on cheap hand trucks he’s used at work.

Hand trucks are a fairly narrow category, and we’d be surprised if there are more than a few factories making the majority of the products you find in big-box hardware stores and on Amazon.

We read the most testimonials about hand trucks from delivery drivers on reddit, who frequently noted that a reliable folding hand truck can make all the difference when you’re trying to find an apartment building entrance while carting around a stack of water-bottle  cases.

We narrowed down our list to the most popular folding hand trucks by checking those testimonials against review scores, but for full-sized models where the number of reviews is so low we looked for distribution networks instead. Magliner isn’t the only top-tier hand-truck manufacturer, but they’re in more stores and typically are the best bang for your buck in the price bracket.

We chose to test two full-size carts with air-filled tires rather than solid tires, since in our experience this type is best overall. We made sure that the models we picked are also available with solid and foam-filled tires if you decide that will suit you better.

Important features to consider

Handle height: The taller your hand truck, the more leverage you have when lifting heavy objects off the ground. Even if you’re moving a small load, a handle that’s too short means you’ll be stooping over to push. For a short trip from your car to your door a compact design is usually fine, but think carefully about how you’re going to use a cart before you buy it.

Handle type: If you’re stacking boxes all the way up to the handle, a “p-handle” or other handle that sticks out from the back will give you more knuckle clearance so you can still push. A centered handle also makes it easier to lift your load onto the wheels with one hand while you steady the load with your other hand. If you’re not loading the truck that high, a larger hoop-shape or dual-handle design makes steering a bit easier.

Collapsible or folding designs: If you don’t need to lift anything heavier than about 80 pounds, a hand truck that folds up is easier to store and move around in the back of your car.

Nose plate shapes and other accessories: Most of us don’t need anything special when it comes to the “nose” platform that a load is stacked on. Even if the nose is short, it only needs to support the corner of the load while you tip the rest, ideally with a strap for security. But some bulky loads or tricky shapes like barrels or reels benefit from a specialized platform or attachment. For a big brand like Mag Liner, you can buy all sorts of add-on features like frame sliders and nose extensions to make your hand truck better for specific jobs.

Pneumatic tires vs. solid tires: Tires filled with air provide a cushion for your load when you’re going over bumps, and they also make getting up stairs and over curbs a little bit easier. The downside is that air-filled tires don’t roll as well under a full load on hard surfaces, and you need to make sure to keep them at the rated pressure. Check out our review of the best bike pump and the best air compressor to see our recommendations for handy ways to top up a low tire.

Good wheel hubs: If you’re getting a full-size hand truck for moving big loads, you should pay more for well-made wheels. Even cheap plastic should be strong enough to hold the rated capacity of a hand truck at first, but in the long run, sun exposure and seasonal temperature cycles can cause it to weaken. Welds on cheap steel wheel hubs are also a weak point in cheap hand trucks.

How we tested

Mobility tests

We ran all of these hand trucks around an obstacle course to see how smoothly and evenly the wheels roll. The hand trucks were all good at maneuvering with light loads; once the smaller collapsible designs were loaded to capacity the short handles were a definite drawback.

The ball bearings on the Magliner definitely made for easier rolling and smoother tracking. We liked the smooth rolling of the air-filled tires when rolling across broken sidewalks and over stair edges, but of course an inflatable tire needs a bit of maintenance. If you’ve got a bike pump or air compressor you shouldn’t hesitate on that count, the drawbacks became evident in our next set of tests.

Weight capacity

The listed weight capacity on the smaller hand trucks seems accurate — that is, we loaded up the manufacturer-rated 150 pounds using storage containers filled with water, and the hand trucks didn’t break while wheeling that load around.

That said, if your load isn’t balanced so the weight can be distributed over the wheels after you tip it back, it won’t work well. We also wouldn’t count on the plastic wheels surviving for long if you load up more than 80 pounds every day and roll them on hard surfaces.

The full capacity of the bigger hand trucks is trickier, since they’re rated for hundreds of pounds. To get that much mass loaded up, the item you’re moving has to be very dense or incredibly tall. The nose-plate of the truck would likely bend when trying to pry the full rated load up off the ground, even if the wheels were capable of rolling under the weight.

If you’re looking to actually move around hundreds of pounds of scrap metal or carefully balanced 50-gallon drums, the wheel bearings and hubs on the Magliner would definitely be our choice.

Air-filled tires are better for smooth rolling on rough surfaces, but they’ll also start to deform as you get closer to the rated load, at which point they’re actually harder to roll. Solid-rubber wheels are usually a better choice if you plan to load up to the maximum capacity, but they’ll get stuck more readily on soft ground.

Folding and extra features

We tested the fold and unfold mechanisms of the smaller hand trucks to find the quirks and drawback to the different designs. The handles on the collapsing hand trucks are nearly identical to handles on a rolling suitcase — they’re easy enough to use, but sometimes sticky. The bigger Cosco 2-in-1 design took more effort to use since it uses clips and levers to secure the different parts once folded. It’s a more versatile design to have around, but it’s not nearly as easy to fold.

The bottom line

A hand truck gives you the most useful two principles of mechanical advantage when handling bulky or heavy loads: You get a lever to lift, and wheels to travel. So long as you can steady or strap the load to the hand-truck body and balance the weight over the wheels, even big barrels and crates can be easy to maneuver.

For one-off jobs like moving into your new apartment, it’s probably not worth buying a new hand truck; just rent one along with your moving van. If you’re moving deliveries around a shop or warehouse, or even if you’re frequently moving large items around your backyard, a sturdy high-quality hand truck will make your job easier. We think the Magliner – HMK119UA4 is the best place to start; it’s stocked widely and has lots of optional accessories for specialized jobs.

If you’re more interested in a small hand truck for carrying a trunk-load of boxes, the Magna Cart – MCX is as capable as it is compact. For mid-sized loads or longer walks around a delivery location, though, the longer handle of the Cosco – Shifter definitely makes life easier.

The Best Full-Size: Magliner - HMK119UA4

Magliner makes top-tier hand trucks that you can be proud to own. If this kind of quality is overkill for your task then check out the other options we tested, but we think it's a worthwhile investment for people who rely on a hand truck.

See Price at Amazon.com

The post The Best Hand Trucks appeared first on Your Best Digs.

Table of contents

• How we selected products to test
• Compare the best stud finders
• Important features to consider
• How to use a stud finder
• How we tested
• Best for drywall: Franklin Sensors – ProSensor T6
• Best for plaster: Zircon – Multiscanner 740
• Best magnetic stud finder: Bosch – GMS120
• The other finalists we tested
• The bottom line

How we selected products to test

Our tester, like many who witnessed the heady days of unreliable technological advancement in the 1980s, is skeptical of electronic stud finders. Early stud finders he used were frustrating, to say the least.

We assessed how far the world of electronic stud finding has come by talking to contractors as well as checking internet discussion on the subject. While most grizzled veterans of kitchen cabinet installation projects will tell you a dozen tricks they think are more accurate than electronic stud finders, there are a few sheepish pros and DIY types who will admit to finding better stud finders and being happy with the accuracy.

After checking both reviews from Wirecutter, This Old House and Popular Mechanics, we looked for YouTube reviews of our top picks and confirmed we had found the latest models with the top features.

After checking retailer review scores, we bought the top six electronic scanners that either met a budget of $30 or $70, with higher expectations like electrical and metal scanning from the more expensive group.

We’ve used rare-earth magnets to find studs around the office before, but we bought the highest-rated magnetic stud finders in order to see if the extra features they include really make them better stud finders. An entire package of big neodymium magnets can often be had for the same price or less.

Compare the best stud finders

Important features to consider

Electronic vs magnetic stud finders: Magnets don’t stick to wooden studs, but they do stick to the screws that hold your wall up. An electronic stud finder will check for the density change from the actual stud anywhere along its height, while you may have to sweep a magnet back and forth over a large part of the wall before you find one of the screws.

Metal scan mode: This mode will look for metallic objects in your wall, rather than wood. In most cases this will be a good way to double-check that you’ve found a stud by looking for drywall screws, but on an advanced stud finder like the Bosch – GMS120 you also get a determination if the metal is non-ferrous (like a copper pipe) rather than steel.

Deep scan mode: When your wall is covered with lath and plaster or stucco this mode will help you find studs more accurately than a regular stud finder could.

Live circuit detection: An electricity detection mode will tell you if you’ve got energized, un-armored electrical wires in a spot you intend to put a screw or nail.

Battery type: most stud finders use a 9V battery type, but one brand we tested uses AA or AAA batteries, which are less expensive and more likely to be in your cupboard already. Rechargeable A-type batteries are also much more common and last longer than rechargeable 9V types.

Calibration mode: Basic stud finders require you to start your search over a known-empty section of wall if you want to get accurate detection of studs, while more expensive devices automatically calibrate as you use them.

Stud marking features: Holding the stud finder in your dominant hand can make it tricky to mark the center of a detected stud with a pencil. Zircon’s popular models include a pencil marker in the stud finder itself to make marking easier, while others design the body of the stud finder to facilitate precise marking when you find a center.

How to use a stud finder

There are a few key steps you need to understand before you’ll have success with most stud finders. Here are some details about stud finders you should know before you try to use one to mount a TV bracket or shelf.

Calibration

Most stud finders start with a calibration step: The sensor checks how dense your drywall is so that the device doesn’t give you false positives. Most devices do this calibration step on power-up when you hold down a button, so you need to hold the stud finder against your wall in a place where you’re pretty sure there is no stud. (About a foot away from a corner is usually a good place to try.)

If you get strange readings, like detected studs that are too close together or no studs at all, try calibrating in a different starting spot to see if you accidentally calibrated on top of an object inside the wall.

Better stud finders like the Zircon – MultiScanner and Bosch – GMS120 will automatically re-calibrate as you move around the wall, which makes them less likely to give false readings. Franklin Sensors scanners like the ProSensor T6 use a different method: These models have an array of sensors constantly checking against each other, which makes calibration unnecessary. None of the stud finders are fool-proof, though.

Knowing what to expect

Drywall installations use 48-inch-wide pieces, so a wall will almost always have studs evenly spaced inside that length. Sometimes you can even see the intersecting angles of different sheets or finishing lines if you look carefully at a large section of wall or shine a flashlight along it.

Studs are typically 16 inches apart, sometimes 24 inches apart and only rarely at any other spacing. You should look first at 16-inch intervals from the corner of the room; you can also check baseboards for nail marks that should indicate where the studs are.

Features like electrical outlets or light switches also show you stud locations, since they’re almost always nailed to a stud before wall surfaces go up.

In most rooms you should be able to use those facts and listen to the sound of a tap on the wall to figure out where most of your studs are, even without a stud finder. A stud finder can help confirm your guess before you make a hole, though.

Sweeping the wall

Standard practice is to start by calibrating your stud finder somewhere you don’t expect a stud and then move in a horizontal line across the place you need to find one.

As the stud finder approaches the edge of a stud, you’ll see an indicator that it detects a change in density. Mark this point with a pencil on a piece of masking tape or a post-it note.

As the stud finder crosses the stud, most will show you an indicator when you’re over the center. You should mark this point the same way you did the edge.

Once you’re past the stud on the other side, come back around slightly higher or lower than your first line, and mark the other edge and get another reading of the center.

Connect the dots

After three passes you should be able to determine a precise stud center line by drawing a vertical line through your marks with a level for reference, but you can probably get it on the first try if you’re seeing clear readings. When you’re happy with the consistency of the marks you’ve made, you can measure and mark the exact height of the fastener you need to install.

After you finish finding all the anchor points you need for a project (or after you pick up some drywall anchors for holes you need where studs don’t line up) then you’re ready to make the final marks with a level and get out the screw gun or drill.

Instant scans

If you’ve got an instant stud finder like the Franklin Sensors T6, you can skip all of the sweeping and just move the stud finder around until you see a clear three-light indicator that indicates the position and rough size of a stud.

How to find a stud in a plaster wall

Lath-and-plaster wall surfaces are trickier than drywall. The surface itself is thicker and denser, so the sound of a hollow opening behind the wall isn’t as distinct when you tap on the wall. Plaster is also much less consistent than the perfectly-flat gyprock boards in newer construction.

Because the plaster and wood covering are denser and less even compared to drywall, you’ll need to use a stud finder with a deep scan mode that adjusts the output or sensitivity.

The magnet trick

Fortunately, even plaster wall surfaces still use metal fasteners holding them to the studs, so you can usually find studs with a strong neodymium magnet or a purpose-built magnetic stud finder like the Studbuddy.

Sweep in a zig-zag pattern up and down the wall until you find a single metal detection point, then look for other spaced-out points along a vertical line to confirm that it’s a stud with fasteners. From there you should be able to more quickly find the next stud locations by measuring 16 inches away.

How to find a stud in the ceiling

A ceiling is usually just drywall with a texture applied, and stud spacings are usually the same. There are a few tricky aspects to finding ceiling studs, though.

First is the fact that you’re working directly over your head. This can lead many people to lose their balance or even to feel vertigo. It’s important that you have a safe, steady platform or step ladder to stand on when you’re working on a ceiling.

Wearing eye protection is even more important than usual, since you’ll probably knock dust or ceiling texture into your face.

Another obstacle is that ceiling texture itself, lumpy “popcorn” texture especially. This stuff will make it very difficult to slide a stud finder back and forth across the surface of the ceiling. Using a piece of paper or thin cardboard can help, but unless you tape or tack the paper to the ceiling it can make the over-your-head one-hand sweeping motions into an ordeal.

A good deep scan mode helps make up for the extra gap created by the texture, but in our tests it was better calibration accuracy that made the biggest difference in eliminating false positives on a popcorn ceiling.

How we tested

We used each of these devices to check for studs in four different areas with multiple passes. Most of those tests were behind half-inch drywall, including two checks in a wall we knew had a copper drain pipe and electrical wire inside. One test was on an exterior stucco wall with steel lath, and one more was on a ceiling with popcorn-type texture. We also did some follow-up checks on plaster walls after our depth and stucco tests returned surprising results.

Ease of use and speed

We tested all of the stud finders to see how easy they were for untrained users to pick up and use. Factors like complicated calibration or scan-mode selection options resulted in docked points, while scanners that built confidence with quick, clear readings were given bonus points.

Depth test

We also did a check for depth calibration using a piece of half-inch foam over the drywall to see what happens when walls are thicker than normal.

The air gap and stucco or plaster walls are the only tests we tried that foil the Franklin Sensors stud finders, while the other devices with deep scan modes passed these tests almost as easily as they did on a regular wall.

Electrical wire detection test

We tested the ability of these stud finders to see live circuits around live receptacles and switch boxes, and with an extension cord behind a mock-up testing wall.

All of the stud finders with live wire detection features were able to see an energized extension cord behind a piece of drywall. But in the walls in our tester’s home and office, live circuits didn’t trigger the device. That’s almost certainly because those wires are run through an armored jacket, which grounds out any electromagnetic field the device would be able to sense. Even a household circuit-breaker panel wasn’t enough for the stud finders to see through normal shielding.

This isn’t a huge problem for most of us; building codes keep electrical wires away from the edge of a stud, and it’s pretty easy to tell if you do happen to screw something into an armored cable that the stud finder misses.

The live circuit detection feature is nice to have for the rare situations where it could save you from accidentally hammering or screwing into un-armored wire between studs in houses where you’ve only got bare Romex wire in the walls, but it’s not an essential feature.

Even if you’re using one of these sensors, you should always turn off circuits running through a wall you’re drilling into.

Best on Drywall: Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6

If you want an accurate picture of where studs are behind your drywall, but you don’t want to practice a methodical back-and-forth sweep to get it, the Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6 is an inexpensive option that works flawlessly in drywall.

This is a different kind of electronic stud finder. Instead of using one or two sensors and telling you when the reading changes as you sweep the tool across the wall, Franklin designs their tools with more sensors that read a larger area simultaneously. The T6 covers a three-inch-wide section, compared to the seven-inch width of the more expensive T13.

How it works

The Prosensor T6 is a textbook definition of a measuring tool that’s very accurate but not at all precise. You don’t actually get a true center-line indicator, just three lines (with an inch in between) that wiggle back and forth a bit as you slide across a stud location. Even with wider or narrower objects we tested, the T6 is programmed to give you a vague one-inch “right here” indication rather than ever trying to show a precise outline.

Since finding the precise center of a stud isn’t usually important, this process gives you exactly what you need, and quickly: If you get three lights, the center light is within a half-inch of a stud center, and you’ve got at least a half-inch of room beside it before the edge of the stud. If you slide the T6 one way or the other, the indicators will shift over to follow the stud, so if you mark the two “middle” lines you see you’ll have a very accurate target about a third of an inch wide.

Both the Franklin Sensors T6 and T13 show plenty of false-positive lights as you sweep over the wall, just like other stud finders; the difference with these “instant read” models is that when it can get a clear reading on a stud, you know for sure because of the telltale three lights that track as you move it slightly from side to side. On other models, you’d have to track a new sweep over the area to double-check a false reading.

Best for Drywall: Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6

If you just want to find studs quicker than you could with a magnet, this is very accurate in drywall. Simple, easy to use and affordable, this is the sort of tool we love most.

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Not as good in plaster

Our only real reservation with this recommendation is that the Franklin Sensors design isn’t very good at finding studs in thick plaster or metal-backed stucco. They claim that these sensors are deep-scanning, but in lath-and-plaster walls the T6 only sometimes works accurately.

The Franklin Sensors stud finders don’t have any other features, either. There’s no metal detector (though they’ll find metal studs well enough based on density) and no live electrical wire detector.

On the plus side, the T6 uses AAA batteries, which are much less annoying than the 9-volt type other electronic stud finders use.

Upgrade to the T13 if you want a built-in level, pencil holder and 8-inch ruler; the extra width doesn’t make it more accurate or precise.

For mounting shelves the price and simplicity of this device are unbeatable. Magnets will be almost as reliable, but the T6 is quicker in drywall.

Key takeaways:

• To find studs accurately and quickly behind drywall, the Franklin Sensors – T6 is excellent.
• While the T6 won’t give you a precise center line, it always gives a reliable target for your screw or nail.
• The AAA batteries are much less expensive than the usual 9V in other tools.
• All this in the least-expensive stud finder we tested.

Best for plaster: Zircon – Multiscanner 740

For those who expect precision and versatility along with accuracy, the Zircon – Multiscanner 740 is a great example of all the technological advancements available in a traditional electronic stud finder.

Zircon is the original patent licensee and most prolific maker of electronic stud finders, and the 740 is one of their top models. It still relies on a methodical back-and-forth sweep, though, and so it’s slower to use than the instant-read Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6.

Of the two Zircon models we tested, the more expensive 740 was clearly working harder to earn its keep. The extra scan modes for metal and electrical wiring are notable, but the superior calibration accuracy is what really sets this scanner apart. Whether in drywall, ceilings, plaster or stucco, this deep-scanning sensor got the clearest detections overall.

The Zircon also self-calibrates as it’s scanning, so you don’t need to worry about starting in the wrong location and getting false readings.

All the Features: Zircon – Multiscanner 740

If traditional sweep-scan stud finders are what you prefer, Zircon designs this self-calibrating version to work more quickly and accurately than the rest. It’s not as simple to use for quick estimates as the T6, but the Zircon does help you mark a more-precise center line.

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This doesn’t mean the Zircon is foolproof. We still got false positives with this stud finder, and the red light indicator and precision pencil marking system are not actually telling you where the exact center of a stud is every time. It’s just better than most comparable tools.

The two-part hinged design is both a blessing and a curse: You don’t have to hold a button down, it just uses pressure against the wall as a power switch instead. That means it’s more susceptible to turning on in a tool bag, and it’s frustrating when you’re working on uneven wall surfaces or especially when trying to skim along a textured ceiling.

The live wire detection worked well in our fake-wall tests with an extension cord, but the armored cable used inside many home walls isn’t detected. If you know you have un-shielded Romex in your walls, this feature might be worth buying for.

If you’re looking for a device that works well on all wall types and helps you quickly mark center line estimates, this is a worthwhile upgrade.

Key takeaways:

• The Zircon – Multiscanner 740 was the most precise scanner we tested.
• Four scan modes let you find more than just wooden studs.
• The deep-scan mode is tricky to activate, but works better than anything else in stucco or concrete.
• A built-in marking device will save you time on big projects.
• Not as quick or easy to use as our top pick.

Best magnetic stud finder: Studbuddy Plus

A magnetic stud finder relies on a tricky cheat to help you find studs: Instead of scanning for the wood inside your wall, it just sticks to the fasteners which hold your wall to the studs. The Studbuddy Plus uses two very strong magnets and an easy-to-grip housing to make sweeping the wall easy.

One great perk of the Studbuddy Plus is that it also has a built-in spirit level. You can switch from finding a stud to marking a level horizontal shelf line without pulling out a second tool, and that saves a lot of time.

Best Magnet: Studbuddy Plus

The Studbuddy Plus is a good multi-purpose tool, but it's still an affordable option for finding studs in nearly any wall. You could by a pack of neodymium magnets instead, but not for much less money.

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Compared to the other magnetic designs we tried, the Studbuddy Plus doesn’t try to show you the precise centerline of a stud at all. The width of the plastic body is just under an inch and a half, so if you trace a line on either side you’d have a rough outline of the stud underneath.

Because screw heads are on the edge of drywall sheets rather than centered on the stud, though, your lines will usually be a half-inch offset from the true stud underneath.

That’s still good enough for most jobs, just don’t rely on the vertical lines you can draw with this tool to show you the limits of where a screw can go. Magnets don’t usually stick on the exact center of a screw head anyway, so you should never rely on a magnet for that without marking a bunch of the zig-zagging screws and finding a center line between them.

The Studbuddy Plus is a multi-purpose tool that adds a handy level to all the strengths of other magnetic stud finder designs. This is the first magnetic finder we’ve seen that actually gives you more functionality than a set of bare magnets would.

Key takeaways:

• The Studbuddy Plus in an inexpensive magnetic stud finder that does more than the rest.
• This is a bit easier to grip and sweep back and forth than other magnets.
• Studbuddy integrates a bubble level into this stud finder, so you can finish your job quicker.
• It doesn’t have a notch or indicator for marking precise center lines.

The other finalists we tested

Bosch – GMS120

With an even more advanced set of wall-scanning tools than even the Zircon Multiscanner, the Bosch – GMS120 does it all. You get the wood, metal and electrical scan modes you’d expect, but the GMS120 will also detect metal objects like fasteners while you’re in the other scan modes, and it can even distinguish between steel and copper.

Knowing that you’ve found a copper pipe instead of a screw head is a pretty great perk, and could save you from costly mistakes. The accuracy wasn’t that impressive, though, so it’s not as quick to use overall

We like most Bosch tools, like the impressive GLM 50C that won top place in our laser distance meter review. On this stud finder Bosch has included thoughtful options like a mute button and a big pencil-marking guide, and this is still less expensive than the Zircon, but the accuracy and consistency were just not good enough to beat the other top two stud finders.

Franklin Sensors – ProSensor T13

Everything we liked about the Prosensor T6 is also true of the bigger Franklin Sensors – ProSensor T13, but the increased price makes it a hard sell. You’re paying three times more for a wider sensor, but the T6 is already more than wide enough to work effectively.

You do get a level, ruler marks and a pencil holder in the T13, which might save you time. But is it worth $40 more? For that much you could buy the T6 and a couple of StudBuddy Plus magnets with built-in levels, and you’d still have change left for a nice mechanical pencil.

If you’re going to spend $60 on a stud finder, you’ll probably be miffed that it doesn’t find electrical wires or work better than this in stucco or plaster.

Zircon – SS70

Zircon’s highly-developed stud finders are good at the side-to-side sweep detection method. The Zircon – SS70 is slightly less accurate than the bigger 740, and it doesn’t work as well through difficult surfaces like metal-lath-backed stucco.

For $29 this is a good stud finder once you get the hang of the back-and-forth sweeping. It also has a live electrical-circuit detector that could be useful if you’ve got unshielded wire it will actually find. But the Franklin Sensors T6 costs less, is much quicker to use and is less likely to give a confusing reading.

Vivreal – VIVSF-01

If you want a metal-scanning mode on a stud finder for less than $30, the Vivreal – VIVSF-01 is not a bad pick. This is decidedly last-generation stud finder technology, though, with a power-on calibration time of 10 seconds. It’s also the least-accurate stud finder we tested with false positives all over the place.

If you do enough sweeps back and forth you’ll be able to find the real center of a stud with this model, and it performed better on stucco than our top pick in deep scan mode, but it’s not a tool we’d want to use every day. If you can only spend $25, get the Franklin T6 and a big package of magnets instead (or both).

Other magnetic stud finders we tested

The least-expensive option we tested was the CH Hanson – Stud 4 Sure 03040. Buying this stud finder is probably less expensive than buying a pack of rare-earth magnets to build your own, and it has a good, strong pair of magnets spaced slightly wider than the Studbuddy’s set.

If you wanted to mark five or six screw locations and average them out to get a best-possible guess at a precise stud center, the Stud 4 Sure has a small indicator that helps you make more consistent marks than the Studbuddy. The level is too small to be useful for anything other than keeping your marks more-or-less in line with the screw heads you find.

The Rack-A-Tiers – Studball is a great design solution to the problem of covering larger areas of wall quickly: Rather than embedding a magnet in a block of solid plastic that you slide back and forth, this design uses a tail of stretchy silicone so you can swing the magnet around quickly without missing your marks. The silicone coating also helps keep the magnet from marking up your wall.

This works well to speed up how quickly you can sweep over a wall for screw heads, and we’d love to have a dozen of these when marking studs for a big project, but it’s not worth the extra $5 over other magnetic options.

The bottom line

After spending years tapping on walls and using bare magnets, we’re happy to say that the latest stud finders really are better than they used to be.

The Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6 is claimed to be an instant stud finder, and it really is much quicker to use than the old side-to-side sweep type. It isn’t as reliable in thick plaster or stucco, but for interior walls it’s an amazing tool at an affordable price.

If you need better scanning in thick wall surfaces, or extra metal and live electrical circuit detection modes, the Zircon – Multiscanner 740 gives the most reliable results we’ve ever seen in a traditional electronic stud finder.

For many people, using a strong magnet to find screw heads under paint will be enough to get the job done. If you’re looking for the best way to use this trick, the Studbuddy Plus is easy to slide around and has a built-in spirit level for lining up that shelf or bracket once you find the stud.

Best Overall: Franklin Sensors – Prosensor T6

For most walls, this is by far the easiest type of stud finder to use. It's not as good as more expensive deep-scanning stud finders in thicker plaster, but even at this low price it still beats the top contenders in regular half-inch drywall. It's much quicker than hunting for screws with a magnet, too.

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The post The Best Stud Finders appeared first on Your Best Digs.

Table of contents

• The 10 laser measuring tools we tested
• Best overall: Bosch – GLM 50C
• Also great: Leica – DISTO D2
• Best budget pick: atolla – T201
• Other products we tested
• Important features to consider
• How we tested
• How we selected
• The bottom line

The 10 laser measuring tools we tested

Laser Distance Meter	Price	Features	Outdoor Visibility	Bluetooth
Bosch - GLM 50C	$$$	5/5	4/5	Yes
Leica - DISTO D2	$$$$	4/5	4/5	Yes
atolla - T201	$$	3/5	4/5	No
Kiprim - LD50	$	3/5	5/5	No
MILESEEY - D5	$$	3/5	2/5	No
Fluke - 414D	$$$	1/5	3/5	No
Bosch - GLM 20	$	1/5	3/5	No
Tacklife - HD60 (Discontinued)	$	3/5	5/5	No
Klein Tools - 93LDM65 (Discontinued)	$	3/5	1/5	No
Dewalt - DW099S (Discontinued)	$$	2/5	2/5	Yes

Best overall: Bosch – GLM 50C

If you’re looking for a top-class distance meter for the jobsite, or even If you’re just working on home projects, the Bosch – GLM 50C takes the prize with excellent features in a compact, affordable package.

Bosch added a lot of great perks to this device that’s competing with entry-level lasers from the other big names. The color screen is easy to read, and it also allows you to control the device with a graphical menu system — much easier to use than the basic four-line alphanumeric display on all the other meters.

Unique functions

A tilt sensor is the real blockbuster value in this package. With an angle readout in the default measuring mode, you don’t have to second-guess how horizontal the line is that you’re shooting. You can make sure that vertical measurements are plumb and even use the level mode to get your new TV or projector bracket level to a tenth of a degree. Bosch also gives you a clever indirect-height mode that uses the tilt sensor instead of relying on you making a 90-degree base measurement.

The most unique feature of the Bosch isn’t even the tilt sensor, it’s the stake-out mode for construction projects. Instead of marking your 16-inch studs or cabinet widths at the back end of the meter as on other devices, you see a visual depiction of the mark on the LCD screen.

A mark on the screen doesn’t let you use the back edge of the tool for making your mark, but it’s much quicker this way. As you slide the meter along the line you’re marking intervals on, you have a few inches of wiggle room around each point where you can see the mark on the screen, instead of needing to get the tool nudged to exactly the right spot before making your mark. Bosch’s interface also makes inputting the interval length for this mode much easier than on Leica’s two-button system.

Bosch’s painter-friendly wall-area mode saves time by only asking you to set room height once, then it lets you add as many wall lengths as you need to get a total area. Sadly, you can’t subtract a window or door area in this mode, but it’s still a great time-saver for quick estimates. There are regular area- and volume-calculator functions as well, and you can add or subtract in those modes.

Bosch also includes a tripod mount, which most of us won’t need, but it makes the Bosch even more versatile. You could even use this as a laser-layout marking system, if you’ve got a trustworthy tripod head to swivel the laser in a perfectly flat plane. This isn’t survey equipment, but it’s good for quickly setting the height of cabinets or lining up picture frames.

Best Value: Bosch - GLM 50C

For almost every indoor application, this distance meter is top-class. With features typically reserved for much more expensive systems, this laser will help you out in a surprising number of home projects. It's also affordable and rugged enough to keep in your toolbag at a jobsite.

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Bluetooth

Bosch’s Bluetooth support is good, but not perfect. If you need to send numbers to AutoCAD, Revit, VectorWorks or TOTAL, get the Leica. The one advantage Bosch offers pro users is export from the MeasureOn app to the ProCore building management suite. MeasureOn is a pretty detailed floor-plan app on its own, but most professionals will probably only use it to store measurements and build a floor plan somewhere else.

We ran into one hitch with Bluetooth: It turns out that the laser doesn’t send Bluetooth measurement values the same way in the default “real-time measurement” mode, and you have to switch to the other aim-and-press “length” mode with some apps.

Key takeaways:

• As a measuring tool you can use every day on the jobsite or for home projects, the Bosch – GLM 50C is an excellent value.
• The graphical display makes extra settings and modes much easier to find and use.
• This tilt sensor and tripod mount are usually only found on much more expensive tools.
• At $200, this would be a competitive tool, but it’s often selling for closer to $110.
• Bosch’s smartphone app is good for basic, accurate room drawings.
• Bosch’s Bluetooth compatibility is a bit lacking compared to Leica if you’re using pro-grade software.

Also great: Leica – DISTO D2

If you weren’t expecting to see a Bosch take the top spot in this review, you were probably expecting to see a Leica. In a world where the Bosch GLM 50C didn’t offer the unique features that come along with the graphical display, Leica would have this in the bag with the DISTO D2. “Disto” is practically a generic term for laser distance measurers — and for good reason.

If you’re setting up a show in a convention center and need more indoor range than the Bosch offers, or if you are using Bluetooth-connected apps that only support Leica’s tools, then the DISTO D2 is definitely worth the $40 difference. It’s a less-flexible stand-alone tool, but it integrates into more complex measurement jobs better.

Entry-level excellence

The DISTO D2 is a very basic model compared to the rest of Leica’s offerings. For a tilt sensor and tripod mount like the Bosch has, you need to spend more than $300 for a DISTO X3, and $400 gets you the X4 with a zoom viewfinder for outdoor measurements, which compares to Bosch’s $300 GLM 400.

Leica’s interface is the real disappointment after using the Bosch meter. The four-line LCD means modes like stake-out are especially clunky, since you need to set the interval distance by scrolling with just the plus and minus keys. You can’t even change measurement units without relying on the quick-start guide to tell you the key combination you need — plus and minus at the same time in this case.

The flip-out reference leg for lining up perfect outside corner references is the one feature of the Leica that we missed when going back to the Bosch. The lack of a tripod mount and level indicator makes that a wash, depending on your project.

If you are going to be using the Leica at maximum range, don’t forget to use the timer feature, which helps you keep the beam on distant targets by eliminating vibration from the button press.

Better Bluetooth compatibility

Buying the DISTO D2 makes perfect sense if you use a Bluetooth-connected app that expects Leica hardware. Compatibility with AutoCAD and the widely-used appraisal suite TOTAL is essential if you’re working in those systems every day, and you’ll probably never use the digital angle finder or stake-out function for those kinds of projects anyhow.

Best Bluetooth: Leica - DISTO D2

The heritage of Swiss engineering is on full display with this DISTO laser, and the maximum range is more than you'd ever be able to get with a hand-held shot. With the very best Bluetooth compatibility, Leica is going to be an essential purchase for some professionals. The D2 doesn't have all of the features of the Bosch, but it's competitive.

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The DISTO Transfer Windows software allows you to drop measurements from the tool directly into software like RevIt or VectorWorks on a Bluetooth-capable PC. We tested this in SketchUp, and after some careful setup it entered measurements just as if we’d typed them. If you prefer working in full CAD drawings to smartphone sketches but can’t afford more expensive survey gear, this is an excellent option.

Skip the free DISTO Sketch app entirely; it’s very limited. Leica’s main measuring app, DISTO Plan, works well with the D2 for drawing a room plan including basic door and window features. The fact that you need the more expensive X3 or X4 to use Leica’s fast-and-easy Smart Room drawing workflow is annoying. DISTO Plan is easy to work with, but not as easy as Magic Plan or Floor Plan Creator, two of the best room-design apps we tried.

Note that the DISTO D1 will still give you Leica’s Bluetooth connectivity for even less than the Bosch, but your interface is down to one button and you lose all the built-in calculation functions.

If you need the extra measuring range or the specific software support, the Leica – DISTO D2 is an excellent measuring tool that fills some gaps between the Bosch and much more expensive tools.

Key takeaways:

• The Leica – DISTO D2 is a relatively affordable handheld tool from a top survey instrument maker.
• Leica gives you more range than most of us could possibly use with a handheld tool.
• If you need compatibility with top CAD apps, this is an easy pick.
• You may miss the angle finder or tripod mount of the Bosch, and Leica’s interface is not as easy to use.

Best budget pick: atolla – T201

Of the three different models we tested for 2023 — all under $40 — the atolla – T201 laser measure stood out as the easiest to use. All three measures were accurate, but the atolla has several subtle differences that made it our favorite for the budget-conscious.

First, its minimum distance is a remarkable .5″, which is the least of all the laser measures we tested, and and 196′ maximum distance. For a few dollars more, another model is available with a 328′ distance.

Second, the four-line LCD screen is brightly lit and exceptionally easy to read, and the screen stays lit for a full 30 seconds, which is plenty of time to write down a measurement.

Best for on a budget: atolla - T201

The atolla - T201 is accurate, easy to use, and has several stand-out features that make it the best inexpensive laser measure.

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The other two measures we tested have a button with units and front/rear reference levels, which we found frustrating because you need to press the button long or short to switch between. The atolla, however, has a separate button for units and and a separate button for reference level, and both could be changed with a single press. We also found the buttons to be sensitive to the touch, so it just takes the slightest pressure to take a measurement.

The atolla has bubble levels on the right side and the bottom, and both were accurate. It has all the measurement modes, including single measurement, continuous measurement (with min/max function), area/volume, and Pythagoras.

The atolla may not have all the bells and whistles of the Bosch, but if you’re looking for a laser measure that’s user friendly and very inexpensive, the atolla – T201 laser measure is a terrific option.

Key takeaways:

• The atolla – T201 laser measure is exceptionally user-friendly and great for non-pros.
• It has a brightly lit four-line LCD screen that stays lit for a full 30 seconds.
• The atolla has separate buttons for units and reference levels, making it simple to switch between.

Other products we tested

Kiprim – LD50

For this 2023 update, we also tested the Kiprim – LD50, which is very similar to the atolla – T201. Surprisingly the Kiprim’s laser could be seen better than the atolla’s laser outside in sunshine at about 10 feet, although it was tricky finding the target with the laser unless we held it at ground level and angled it up.

It has all the usual functions, including a save mode that can store up to 99 measurement records. The Kiprim has a well-lit LCD screen but stays lit for only 12 seconds. We also found that we needed to push the “read” button two or three times to take a measurement.

Inevitably, though, it comes down to how well the Kiprim measured, and in several tests, it gave three different readings for the same distance.

MILESEEY – D5

The MILESEEY – D5 is just like any other laser-measure clone, and although it’s highly rated, we found it to be not particularly user friendly. It has the same functions as the atolla and Kiprim laser measures, but instead of a bubble level, the MILESEEY has a tilt sensor, not too dissimilar from the Bosch, though much less sophisticated.

Units and reference level are on the same button, and it can get confusing in switching them depending on how hard you press the button. The MILESEEY has an odd quirk when measuring minimum and maximum distances. The measurements flash and change repeatedly, and with its loud sound alert beeping at every flash, it’s like you’ve won a game on a pinball machine. Of course, the sound can be turned off, but you’ll still get the flashing up and down the screen.

The backlit screen stays lit for 9 seconds, but the measure does have a save function (for to 30 measurements), so you can toggle between them for writing them down.

The MILESEEY was quite accurate in measurement, although it would occasionally mismeasure once. So you’ll need to take several measurements just to be sure.

Fluke – 414D

Fluke is a name that bears no disrespect: Electricians all over the country will sooner fight you than let you say mean things about their yellow-orange multimeters. The Fluke – 414D is well-protected against drops and it’s good at what it does, but with a whopping $120 price tag this is too spartan to get a recommendation.

The Fluke meter doesn’t have a backlight for the screen, let alone a corner support leg or tilt sensor.  The basic modes, including addition and subtraction of measured area, are all here, but you can’t get foot or inch measurements with decimal display.

If Fluke is calibrating these meters to a higher standard than the imitators, it doesn’t show up in a way that we could find. There’s a feeling of security that comes with a professional-grade measurement tool made by a company that stakes its reputation on reliability, but that’s also true for Leica and Bosch. Those brands are giving you much more for your money with their meters, so there’s not much reason to buy this model unless you’re a devoted loyalist.

Bosch – GLM 20

If you’re looking for a literal replacement for a tape measure, with no features other than checking distances, the Bosch – GLM 20 is a reliable choice.

The GLM 20 isn’t always easier to use, though, than other more fully-featured options. We liked the simplicity of the one-button interface for basic jobs, but as soon as you need to change the measurement units (by holding down that button when powering up) you’ll wish you had a more sophisticated device.

This is the least-expensive tool in our lineup, but it’s not actually any easier to use than the TackLife, which only costs about $7 more. Having the ability to take an indirect height measurement or measure from the front edge of the meter is definitely worth it for the projects we worked on in our tests. If you’re someone like a camera assistant who only needs estimated focus distance measurements, this bare-bones Bosch meter is a good value.

Tacklife – HD60 (Discontinued)

(Editor’s note: In 2023, we learned that the Tacklife was discontinued.)

The Tacklife is a clone of other tools, to be sure. But it’s just as accurate as the other meters — at any distance you’d be able to hand-hold them, anyhow. The bubble level indicators are useful to keep you from shooting a wildly sloped line, but they’re not accurate or precise enough to replace even a smartphone-app-based level.

Tacklife has a good customer satisfaction record, and we can see why. The interface is similar to most standard laser tape measures, with a bright screen and dedicated buttons for all the important features.

The option to see readings in decimal inches as well as fractions, feet and meters is a nice touch if you’re going to use the numbers for calculations or numerical input. Other meters in this price bracket only give you decimal readings for metric units.

If sub-inch accuracy of a distance meter is important to you, you should definitely check against a known reference like a tape measure if you buy this device. The calibration on the device we bought, though, was spot-on down to the millimeter. At 10 feet measured between parallel walls indoors, the Tacklife gave an identical reading to the Leica and Bosch, down to a hundredth of an inch.

(Editor’s note: In 2023 we learned that the Klein Tools – 93LDM65 and the DEWALT – DW0995 were both discontinued.)

Klein Tools – 93LDM65 (Discontinued)

The Klein Tools – 93LDM65 had excellent screen and interface, but this meter has the dimmest dot. It’s fine if you’re shooting wall measurements, but in sunlight it’s easy to lose track of, even with contrast-enhancing red glasses.

Most features you’re looking for, including minimum-and-maximum mode, a painter-friendly area calculator and an extendible reference stick for tricky surfaces like sharp inside corners. You don’t get the premium options like stake-out mode or an actual right-angle corner brace, but for about $40 this is a good value.

The Klein Tools meter gave the least-reliable outdoor measurements in our tests, but it’s still within a millimeter of the other tools for indoor readings.

This is a close contender for our budget pick. If you frequently do wall area estimates and you want a tool you can afford to leave in your unlocked toolbox over lunch, this is a good fit.

DEWALT – DW099S (Discontinued)

The DEWALT – DW099S is compact and has a good button layout for all the basic features. The high-contrast screen is one of its best features, earning a tie with the Bosch for easiest screen to read in a dark room or in full sunlight.

There are a few features missing on this meter, however. For example, you get the usual painter-friendly area calculation with add and subtract functions, but no indirect height function. If you remember the Pythagorean theorem you can calculate that yourself, but it seems like an obvious mode to include.

The reason the DEWALT ranks so low on our list is that the app compatibility is poor, but you pay full price for Bluetooth. You can only connect this measuring tool to the DEWALT Connect app, which just has a photo markup function.

You’re not going to be able to export anything close to a CAD file from this app, but you can take a photo of a wall (or even a pencil sketch of a rom layout) and overlay a quick free-hand outline of wall segments with your finger. DEWALT Connect will then let you easily add the distance readings one segment at a time as you walk around the room. It’s not the most powerful layout tool, but if you like to sketch a room on paper anyhow, it’s actually much more convenient than other workflows.

Important features to consider

Stake out: When you need to place a feature like a wall stud, light fixture or shelf support at precise, regular intervals, stake-out mode will help you mark those spots at the distances you set. Bosch gives you some wiggle room with an indicator of where your mark is on the inch-and-a-half-tall screen as you slide the tool past, while Leica just tells you how much farther you have to go to land on the next mark with the back of the tool.

Painter mode: Most of these tools will let you measure the height and length of a wall and then show you the area, but the better meters also let you add or subtract other areas — add up all the walls, subtract windows and doors — to give you a total wall area for paint coverage estimates.

Indirect height measurement: If you remember the Pythagorean theorem, you know that you can check the length of a line by measuring two other lines in a right triangle. Laser measurement tools typically include a mode that calculates the result for you automatically, which can be very handy if you want to know the height of a building feature you can’t quite reach.

Level and tilt sensors: When you’re measuring walls it helps to know when you’re actually holding the meter level so you don’t add extra length by measuring an angle. The Bosch takes this even further, giving you a precise tilt measurement. You’ve got an excellent tilt sensor on most smartphones these days, but having a laser level, angle finder and tape measure in one tool is very convenient.

Unit Reading Options: This is the number of different options you’re given for seeing the displayed results of a measurement. All the meters offer a foot-inch-fraction mode to replicate what you’d get from an old-fashioned tape measure, but the better meters offer other modes like inch-and-fraction readings or decimal readings (see below).

Decimal readout: This feature is, of course, always available for metric units. But many professionals in North America (even tradespeople in Canada working on residential projects) use inches and feet for measuring rooms and building materials. Just because you measure ceiling height in feet doesn’t mean you want to be stuck entering fractions in your design software or converting them to add measurements together. Decimal readouts for feet are available on all but two of the meters, and both of our runner-up picks let you see decimal inches.

How we selected

Our writer for this review has been using laser distance measures at work for five years, mostly while rigging speaker and projector installations as an audio-video technician at convention centers and other event venues. He’s also used laser distance meters to generate computer-based layouts for home renovation projects. He uses his laser distance measure on most of his projects for Your Best Digs, everything from measuring edge angles on kitchen knives to measuring how far a leaf blower can throw a weighted box.

Expert input:

We also interviewed other professionals who use measuring tools daily:

Victor Millares is a project manager with Viking Environmental Group and uses laser measurers every day to estimate asbestos and lead abatement jobs.

Christina Younger is an architect working at Gensler in Newport Beach, and she primarily transfers site measurements from Leica measuring tools into building information software like RevIt or into AutoCAD.

Marcellus Wesley is a director of operations for audio-video service provider PSAV at a conference center in Anaheim, California, with seven years of experience flying projector screens and speaker arrays. Marcellus typically designs his shows in VectorWorks.

Competitive price range

After looking at the full range of offerings from the market leaders — Bosch, Leica and Hilti — we narrowed our search down to the meters that will provide extra functionality for common indoor tasks, but stay inside a reasonable budget. Two of our experts have had expensive meters stolen from job sites and said they would make do without rarely used features or the most prestigious brands to avoid repeating that heartache.

We tested four models in the $80–$150 range and three in the under-$50 price range. All had excellent average review scores from buyers, though we did go with a newer DEWALT meter over an older, better-reviewed model that’s discontinued.

How we tested

We ran each of these tools through day-to-day tasks for contractors, insurance estimators and home improvement hobbyists. Our tester created a room layout for his home office with each device, then put up a picture or shelf, measured distances of cabinets, estimated the length of a network cable run and calculated wall area of a bathroom renovation.

We checked the outdoor usability of each tool side-by-side, checked accuracy in a calibration test and tested the Bluetooth connection of three models on an Android smartphone.

Basic use tests

Outdoor visibility: None of these meters is ideal for outdoor use at long ranges, since they don’t have viewfinders to show you exactly what they’re pointing at when you lose track of the dot. Brighter lasers still make a difference at short ranges or even indoors on sunny days, though. We also highly recommend picking up contrast-enhancing red glasses like this pair from DEWALT to help you track a red laser dot in sunlight.

Screen readability: If you’re in a tight corner or working outside, you need to be able to see what measurements you’re getting without moving the meter. We checked readability from every angle and ranked the tools against each other. Screens with a high-contrast display won this competition easily.

Minimum distance: We also checked the minimum distance each tool can measure, listed on the chart above in inches. Other than the Bosch – GLM 20, they were all able to see a wall at less than 2 inches, but the Leica was able to read about 3/16″ closer than the others.

Best Range: Leica - DISTO D2

Leica's laser lets you measure longer and shorter distances than the other models we tested. You pay a bit more for the versatility, but there's a reason disto is practically a generic term for these tools.

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Maximum distance: After trying to set up a few outdoor concerts with a standard laser, it became clear that a viewfinder like you’ll find on the $300 Bosch – GLM 400 is essential if you want an accurate distance for anything other than the side of a building.

Useful hand-held range was about fifty feet before hand movement made measurement impossible, and as you go farther, visibility of the dot in daylight is the biggest limitation.

Bluetooth compatibility

To assess how useful Bluetooth features are, we looked first at the manufacturer-provided apps to see if they would meet the needs of a contractor, realtor or estimator taking notes about the size of a room or a specific feature in a room. Next we tried connecting to four popular insurance computer-aided drafting (“CAD”) and room planning apps.

The DEWALT – DW099S is a great example of a Bluetooth tool that meets basic needs but completely fails to live up to its potential. DEWALT’s own app (actually a sub-page of a tool management app) only allows you to fire the laser remotely or make measurement markings on a photo. We searched for third-party app support and found nothing else that worked with this meter, even among apps that supported older DEWALT models.

Bosch and Leica both give you a layout drawing app to work with. Leica’s DISTO Plan is good for quickly sketching a basic room and reviewing it, while Bosch’s MeasureOn is comparable in sketch mode but also offers a detailed plan mode with options for wall thickness, electrical outlet locations and drop ceilings. Bosch even gives you a complete estimate of materials and wall surface for your projects within the MeasureOn app.

A PDF summary export from these apps is going to be good enough for most of us as a reference or for manual transferring dimensions to other software, but Bosch offers file export for the ProCore system and Leica offers a paid unlock for saving .DXF and .DWG files.

Leica was the clear winner on compatibility: Software developers go out of their way to make their apps work specifically with Leica’s DISTO brand. Leica also offers Windows software that will let you capture Bluetooth measurements in nearly any design or drafting application.

Bosch is arguably better-known among contractors than Leica, but support for the GLM 50C was spotty. Leica is the only brand supported by AutoCAD or TOTAL, the apps we heard the most about from professionals. Both of our top picks worked perfectly in Magic Plan and Floor Plan Creator, two top apps.

When is a laser better than a tape?

Laser advantages

Convenience and range: A laser distance measure is more compact than a tape, and it’s infinitely faster. But the biggest advantage is when you’re measuring distances longer than your arm span or across a gap. With a laser, you don’t even need to be able to touch the point you’re measuring to, so long as you’ve got a clear view of it.

Easy calculations: The laser is dominant in measuring indoor spaces, making it simple to calculate how much paint you need for a giant wall or how much air volume a heating system needs to move. Estimators nearly all carry one, even if the contractors they work with stick to the old metal tape.

Precision: Tape measures aren’t inaccurate, but the way we use them often involves rounding to a convenient fraction and even adding up multiple rounded measurements. Lasers will always give you a measurement down to the smallest fraction or decimal available, and the accuracy is just as good as a tape.

Tape advantages

Easier for simple measurements: If you’re just spacing out picture frames or centering a large bedroom mirror before you drill holes for drywall anchors, a tape might be less hassle to work with than a laser. Still, if you have a corner of the room to measure from, a laser with a built-in level and a “stake-out” mode for marking evenly spaced distances can do the job very quickly.

Surface measurements: A laser lets you down if you want to measure along a surface rather than between objects. Marking a board for miter-saw cuts, for example, is far easier with a tape. Lasers are also pretty bad at measuring uneven terrain like grass. You can use stakes, post-it notes or masking tape to create targets for the laser to shoot, but a tape measure can just lie on the ground.

Bright sunlight: If you’re working on an outdoor job, a tape will nearly always work flawlessly, so long as it’s long enough for the job. With a laser, you need to keep track of the dot by setting up your measurements carefully and resting the meter on something that won’t shake or move.

Other measurement tools

Augmented reality programs on your smartphone are now able to create impressive room maps with just motion sensors and cameras, but none of them are precise enough to give you a layout you can rely on for important jobs. With the right combination of software and a Bluetooth-connected laser distance measure to verify critical dimensions, however, you can get the best of both worlds.

The bottom line

Laser distance measuring tools have come a long way, and we were impressed with the accuracy of even the most inexpensive tools we tested. For taking room or DIY project measurements, these all worked well. If you’re working outside on a bigger job, you’d need to spend big bucks to get something with a sight glass or camera for reliable measurements at more than 100 feet.

With the best features in a stand-alone tool, the Bosch – GLM 50C is a replacement for a tape measure, a plumb bob and even a laser level. The graphical interface makes changing modes and settings much easier, and the free Bluetooth-connected app is a good way to draw basic floor plans.

If you want compatibility with AutoDesk or A La Mode software products, the Leica – DISTO D2 is the easy choice. Even though this Disto doesn’t have as many features as the Bosch, the compatibility will be more important for many professional users.

If you’re on the other end of the spectrum, just looking for an affordable laser you can still rely on, the atolla is accurate, bright and very easy to use without skimping on handy features.

Top Pick: Bosch - GLM 50C

If you want a laser measuring tool for less than $150, the Bosch does the most and hassles you the least. The full-color screen gives you functions like an angle finder, stake-out mode, and easy unit switching that make it a valuable tool for professionals and homeowners alike. Bosch's Bluetooth compatibility is good, and the range is more than most of us will be able to use.

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How we selected

Everyone who owns a screwdriver probably knows that drywall isn’t strong enough by itself to support cabinets, flat-screen TVs or large mirrors. But many of us need a way to mount in a specific location without the support of a wooden stud, and few of us can add a brace just for decorating.

Every handyman has different preferences for fasteners, and drywall anchors see a lot of debate. We looked for recommendations from handyman blogs, forums, and publications like This Old House to narrow down what we were expecting from anchors we found.

ProjectFarm’s channel on YouTube has an admirable dedication to thorough testing of products like these, so we were eager to check well-reviewed products they didn’t test and to verify their results.

After compiling a list of all the top recommended anchors, we eliminated basic options that weren’t at least rated to the strength of an easy-to-use self-drilling anchor like the Toggler – SnapSkru. We also eliminated options like molly bolts that require extra work for little return in actual strength for a drywall installation.

When multiple vendors made the same product, we picked the option with better reviews, a better price or better availability. (In that order of priority.)

We tested a cast-zinc anchor that is supposed to help in situations where you might accidentally hit a stud, but it fared so poorly in testing (it held half the weight of pop-open plastic anchors) we didn’t include it in the final list.

Important features to consider

Installation type – If you’re handy with a screw gun, you probably won’t blink at pre-drilling holes, but you can save a lot of time with self-drilling anchors. Hammer-in anchors are also an option, though pushing through the drywall backing paper can tear it and make a weak spot. A sharp awl and a drywall saw can be even easier than a drill, so long as you keep your hole centered.

Support type – Pop-open anchors are easy to install and hold well compared to drywall alone, but if you want to hold up a shelf you need an anchor that spreads the weight out. The biggest factor in anchor strength for most applications is how well the anchor spreads tensile load (pulling away from the wall) across a wide area of the inside of the drywall sheet. Look for a two-piece design with a brace inside the wall that clamps down when you tighten your screw through the anchor.

Reusable designs – Some anchors will pop out of the wall easily when you remove the screw, but others will require prying or even poking around with wire inside the screw hole to straighten the flip-out anchor so you can pull it out. A few designs are basically permanent, so you need to make a larger hole to remove them.

Hole and flange size – If you’ve got the world’s strongest anchor but it leaves an ugly plastic flange sticking out past the edge of your shelf bracket, it’s not much help. Some anchors also require making holes in your wall as big as 3/4″.

Screw size – If you’ve got a particular bracket you need to bolt to the wall, note the size of the holes and compare your options. A small high-strength machine screw can still work with a larger bracket hole if you add a fender washer, but an oversize screw won’t go through a small hole unless you get out the drill.

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How we selected

Our garage testing team has built and maintained everything from cheap two-by-four shelves in farm sheds to pallet racks at an audio-video rental warehouse. We spent a long time narrowing down the available options. If you’ve got a particular shelving need, there’s someone out there who makes a product or has a DIY plan.

But to find out specifically what most garage enthusiasts are installing, we scoured forums like garagejournal.com, grassrootsmotorsports.com and survivalistboards.com for garage storage ideas. We also checked garage and workshop storage system reviews on YouTube and Reddit.

Only shelves under $200

After considering industrial pallet racks shelving that’s designed to hold loaded freight pallets, we decided to eliminate anything that costs above $200 per shelf. The weight capacity of more expensive shelves is better if you want to store a spare engine for your muscle car, but pallet racks are tricky to assemble and not as efficient when you just need a place for your collection of heavy-duty storage tubs.

Only tool-free, free-standing shelves

If you leave out industrial and DIY options, the obvious choice is tool-free shelving kits. The components are simple, but when you slide them all together the resulting shelf is strong.

If you want to install drawers or cabinet doors on your shelves there are purpose-built systems available, but free-standing shelves are far more versatile and a better buy in most cases. Cabinets are nice if you do painting work or make a lot of dust in your garage, but most of the time the doors are just in the way.

We compared all the tool-free-assembly shelves we could find locally with popular models online, and bought a less-expensive and a more-expensive option in both wire-rack shelving and boltless shelving. Except for one, these designs all turned out to be generic. Edsal makes most of the boltless shelving that’s sold in hardware stores, and wire rack shelving is even harder to tell apart.

Important features to consider

Shelf material – If you need water or mildew resistance because you’re parking wet vehicles right next to your storage, wire shelving is your best bet. In less demanding conditions, chip-board shelves are stiff and fairly attractive and can be painted to protect it.

True weight capacity – A shelf’s maximum load rating (often in hundreds of pounds) assumes evenly spread weight and is determined by the strength of the frame. If you weigh down the middle of an unsupported chip-board shelf with even half that much weight, it will bow or even break. Of the boltless clip-together shelving units we tested, only the Gladiator comes with a center support bracket, though you can sometimes buy aftermarket supports. Wire rack shelving is more rigid because the shelves have truss-reinforced welded side support.

Shelf dimensions – Check carefully for how much space you have in your garage, and remember that you’ll need room to stand in front of the shelves. The most common shelf depth is 18 inches, which holds most of the best storage containers in smaller and medium sizes. If you want to load up a 21-inch lawn mower for the winter, you’ll need to pick a deeper 24-inch version of these shelves.

Tool-free assembly – Screwing or bolting together shelves is tedious work. Tool-free shelves, like the models we tested, will save you some time and frustration. The first shelf is always tricky if you’re assembling by yourself, though.

Wheels or anchors –  Some shelving comes with holes in the bottom of the shelf uprights so you can anchor it to a floor; boltless shelves aren’t solid enough that you can move them around. Wire racks, on the other hand, are fairly stiff and rigid, so you can order them with casters that let you move your parts shelf around the garage as you work.

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